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  1. I’m so sorry to hear this Karen. Our thoughts and prayers are with you and your family.

  2. Now that sounds like an unusual one!
    It’s a bit late, but Happy Christmas to you both. I had a mince-pie for you 😉

  5. It does sound just marvellous, so glad to hear the India experience has picked up.
    Looking forward to the next instalments.

    • We’ve moved into Shimla’s Cedar Grand for the next five nights so we can enjoy our R&R, and we’re soaking it up. On Saturday we’ll head back down to Chandigarh and get the bike serviced, and then we’re off to Agra to see the Taj Mahal 🙂

  11. If I’m not mistaken there’s a few different groups active in Baluchistan province, all with different objectives, so it makes for a very complex situation. I can certainly imagine that Baluchistan would breed a very tough and proud people as the climactic conditions they live in here are very challenging, but at the same time their friendliness and warmth is humbling. I’m constantly reminded that you can’t really learn much about people by watching documentaries on TV – you really need to sit down with people over a cup,of sweet black tea and chat to learn about them as individuals, and their culture.

  12. Adventure riding takes on a whole new meaning travelling in areas affected by war.
    Looking forward to the next instalment.

  14. 2 more sleeps, then the adventure begins again in earnest.
    Hope you guys are well rested and ready for some Kilometres.

    • Wake me up when it’s time to go !!!! The rough plan is:
      Wed – collect visas late in the afternoon
      Thu – Tehran to Yazd – 640km
      Fri – Yazd to Bam – 560km
      Sat – Bam to Zahedan 340km then cross border and ride additional 400km to Dalbandin (740km total)
      Sun – Dalbandin to Quetta – 340km
      Mon – Quetta to Sukkur – 390km
      Tue – Sukkur to Multan – 470km
      Wed – Multan to Lahore – 350km and then cross into India
      Thu – rest day. If it’s not a 300+ km day it’s not worth gearing up for a ride 🙂

  15. Some options at least…. as for most things I guess the reason won’t become apparent for quite a while.
    Best of luck for the day!

    • Mate – I’m up for a ride 🙂 If by fluke we jag the visas tomorrow then I’ve got two days to cover the 1,200km from Tehran to Bam, to hook-up with a small convoy of overlanders going east with an organised police escort. From Bam we’d then have seven days of solid riding before we cross into India. Obviously this is my preferred option.

      Failing the visas tomorrow we need to decide whether or not to back-track and fly over India, or wait until the 19th and then try and meet up with another group of overland travellers. Let’s take things one step at a time 🙂

  19. Keep up the stories…. Loving the little titbits that make it such a personal journey.
    Any luck with the India visa? Stay well and keep writing, I love it.

    • Sounds like it’s taking its toll. Here’s hoping that the government powers that be see the benefits of our intrepid travellers traversing the sub continent.

      • Cheers Craig. We’ve scraped our plans to sight-see in Yazd, Kerman and Bam and we’ve returned to Tehran to tackle the Embassy this coming week. Rather than exploring Iran we’re holed up inside our hotel, trying to pick our way through a frustrating mass of red tape and apathy. On Monday I’ve hopefully got one last card to play if necessary, but it’s getting down to the wire.

    • G’day Craig! India is proving a tough nut to crack. Thursday 13th is our drop-dead date for approval – if we miss that date then we have no option but to abort India & Nepal and instead back-track at least to Turkey and fly the bike forwards to SE Asia. The stress of the situation is ever-present. Tomorrow (Sunday) is the first day of the working week for the Indian Embassy here in Tehran and we’ll visit them in the hope of some good news. Cross your fingers for us!!!

  20. Loving the adventure so far… so many places to go. So many things to do.
    Think of us here in Perth living vicariously through your writings and pics.
    Keep up the great work. Here’s hoping for some clear warmer weather.

    Craig

  21. … and Dave – I’m a hi-viz convert now !!! We’d probably be pancakes by now if not for all the hi-viz tape festooning the bike, and I’ve even started wearing the hi-viz vest at times 🙂

  22. Hi Guys,
    really loving the story.
    A true modern adventure, not in the wilderness, but in the present day “in our civilised world”. Really enjoying your photos and accounts of your daily experiences. Just think that you could have done a world cruise on a luxury liner, circling islands in the Aegean, surround by boring, obese rich people and utter opulence, being bored sh*tless, whilst being served by waiters in starched shirts & jackets. But no, you are immersed in a real life adventure, along with the daily challenges that life throws at you. – Awesome!
    A shame about the weather, but it constantly reminds me of why I originally came to Oz. With so much exposure to the wet weather, look out for the skin starting to web between fingers & toes…..lol., you’ll know there is a problem when the gloves become difficult to put on.
    I see you guys are still persevering with the original clothing (heated gear excluded) and must be so over the wet weather riding by this time? Are Bavarian suits on the agenda?
    Glad to see the tyres are living up to expectations and was wondering what the locals favour in the way of tyres for their local conditions?
    Very disappointed to hear that the panniers are not holding up as expected, despite I believe your attempts with A.C. here in Perth to rectify the problem? Is it the lid seal, rivets or somewhere else? Maybe silicon every rivet from the inside and gaffa tape around the lid?? A pain, I know, but until you get them sorted, or until the weather fines up? Can you get assistance from BMW whilst in London?
    Keep ’em coming…..
    Cheers,
    Dave (and Gabriele), whom recently experienced some non- sealed riding on the GS on our ANZAC long weekend away.

    • G’day Dave – can’t afford Bavarian suits unfortunately, so we’ll stick with what we have I think – I’ve got my old Akito Desert jacket & pants, Karen has a Dryrider adventure jacket and Akito Desert pants. Karen is fed up with wearing wet-weather gear on top of her riding gear as it’s so bulky, but from a riding perspective – once you’ve got your gear on and headed off into the wet it’s not that bad (unless it’s bucketing down in which case the riding becomes a bit challenging). We did swap our panniers at Auto Classic – they were very good about it – but when the rain is pouring down they just suck the water in like a wet vacuum. We’re using dry bags now to wrap our gear in and we’ll see how that goes. We’ll cross over to France tomorrow via the Eurotunnel train and I’m hoping for an improvement in the weather. We’ve managed to fluke enough dry spells to allow us to enjoy what we’ve come to see – for example – it wasn’t raining (much) when we walked around Stonehenge – even if it did bucket down afterwards, so in that respect we’ve been very fortunate.

      I’m looking forwards to getting off the B&B circuit and into something a bit more challenging, and the language differences in Europe will contribute to that. First stop after we got off the train tomorrow at Calais will be to visit a WWI cemetery in Dozengham Belgium where one of my dad’s uncle’s is buried, and from there it may be a quick trip to Paris before heading to Frankfurt for the HU Meeting on the weekend 14th-17th May. Not quite the hard-core adventure of other riders but we’ve seen a lot and I’m enjoying the riding.

      Are there photos posted up on Meetup of your GS adventures over the ANZAC weekend? I’ll go look for them later – for now I need to go pack our gear in preparation for tomorrow.

      Great hearing from you both. Stay safe and chat soon 🙂

      Vince & Karen

  23. Hi Guys, just echoing Craig’s comments as we are loving the updates too.

    Sorry to hear about Kaz’s challenges. That has certainly thrown you “a curve ball” as they say.
    Best wishes from all of us here for a swift and successful recovery with the condition, so do as the the medico’s say, rest, and get well so the shakedown can finish, and the real adventure can begin.

    Really enjoying the pics and videos guys.
    I was around those parts sometime in the late seventy’s, driving olive drab green trucks, dressed in European camo whilst in the service of Her Majesty. Needless to say, it rained everyday whilst we were there…lol.

    Interested in the heated jackets Vince, so would appreciate a “Product Review” (just like Anthony at Revzilla.com….) lol….
    Y’know, details, specs and how you wired them from the bike (or battery)…did you buy them in Oz, or over there?

    You guys are an inspiration! I can’t believe how fast things have unfolded over the last 12-15 months. From a coffee at Dome Cafe Hillarys, and now your’e on the adventure of a lifetime!!
    Maybe we have another Simon & Lisa Thomas in the mix, just developing a few stubby feathers ready to travel the globe on BMW’s for the next 12 years or so!,……..

    Anyway guys, the news from here: the group has slowed up a bit, probably because there were a hell of a lot of rides going on, and secondly, the weather has cooled off, but has become absolutely perfect for the serious riders.

    It’s ANZAC day here this Saturday (FYI), and Gabriele and I are off on our mini-adventure. Riding down to Tone bridge for a riverside camp and cook out, then probably Broomehill for the Sunday night. Monday, home via my mate Stan who owns the General Store and burger joint at Popanyinning for a feed on the way home…

    Best wishes from the both of us,..God Bless, and take care. Keep keeping on, catch up again soon………

    • G’day there Dave – great to hear from you mate, and thrilled that you and Gabriele have an adventure ride of your own to enjoy!! I’ll write about the heated vests in more detail later, but in a nutshell Karen has the BMW-issue vest and I’m using a 3rd-party product – Keis. We got different brands as they fitted us better. Both vests are hooked up to the battery, and each have a (different design) three stage controller. On very cold days you’re not cooking in the vests but they keep the cold at bay and allow you to push on. Approx 100 pounds each. Here’s a tip – don’t let your controller drag on the ground as you ride along or very quickly you’ll be needing a new one 🙂

      The riding has really picked up recently, but you need to take each day as it comes – some days we’re in a great riding area (like the Yorkshire Dales or the Lakes District) but the weather is foul, so on those days we either tone down our riding or pick an easier route, or both. I stumbled across Cole Coleman’s “Great Motorcycle Tours in Europe” the other day and it’s pointed out some wicked roads, and we always chat with local riders as well to get their input and advice. In Scotland pretty much any road is a rider’s dream – twisty curves that snake through the hills and alongside the rivers and the BMW eats the roads up. I just wish I was a more competent rider as that way I could get more out of both the bike and the roads – but even as a novice they still put a smile on my face that lasts for the whole day !!

      Enjoy your ride and keep us posted okay !!!!

  24. Hi Guys…. loving the updates… generating quite a bit of interest back here in WA.
    So good to have news of your adventures (complete with the treatments).
    Feeling like I’m living my life vicariously through the journey.
    Looking forward to the next instalments.
    Craig

    • Mate the riding here is absolutely fantastic !!! The weather is clear and cool – external temperatures can be around 8 degrees C so with the wind chill factor it’s even colder on the bike and as a result we’re making good use of our electric vests. Here in Scotland – where we can we pick up the back roads, and they are usually single lane roads with passing bays scattered along their lengths. Today (21st Apr) we did just under 400km from John o Groats to Ballater and it took us about 8.5 hours riding time, and I’m knackered now. There are so many awesome roads to ride on over here I think I’m in paradise 🙂

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