It was a lonely, restless night in my single bed…… I always having trouble sleeping when Vince and I are apart and can’t snuggle up together…….so I was awake before our alarm went off at 6.00am to pack the bike….we had a bit of breakfast at 7.00am which was very nice ….especially having some fresh fruit….watermelon, pawpaw and banana….yum!

Our tour group went for a walk at 8.00am to the local Bazzar……it was quite interesting to see the various stall holder’s wares….but the fish stall sent me scurrying quickly away due to the smell!

I was unable to locate any glue for my boot (the one that had been repaired in Pakistan) which has lost it’s sole again and is currently held on with electrical tape….I am in a bit of a bad way really ….equipment fail wise……I have only one glove….the other was lost under escort in Pakistan….my Dryrider Jacket zip has failed for the third time (already repaired twice – in Ankara (Turkey) and then Varanasi (India))……so I can’t do it up at all….my Senna is currently held together on my helmet with electrical tape…despite replacing the sticky pad kit so many times I’ve lost count….so I’m a bit of a wreck at the moment!

Back at the hotel we were quickly on our way by 9.00am. Riding through the rural countryside was just beautiful as we saw the locals going about daily life….driving their oxen and carts, working in the fields, some, including women working on the roads and the children smiling and waving at us as we passed. The atmosphere was so different to India and the environment so much cleaner…..people here really take pride and it shows.

It took us a couple of hours to get to Pinday…..and at one point we corner marked for the 4×4’s so the would know where to turn but they still ended up turning right instead of left and we had to back track after them. Unfortunately, riding up the mountain we managed to get a puncture on some glass….when I dismounted I could hear the air rushing out of the rear tyre…..luckily we have been carrying the old ones with us…..the number of times I’ve cursed those dam things and they bounce into my spine…..and now I’m grateful!

Our guide, Win, stayed with the bikes whilst Nyi, our Burmese guide, took us to the Budda Cave….it cost 300 Kyet for each camera to be used and US$3 each entrance fee. It wa a pretty amazing place with over 8000 Budda’s. There was a maze to walk through and at the top of the cave was a meditation cave….we all had fun crawling into it and practicing our meditation poses! Further into the cave we saw where the actual cave ends.

Back in the car park the fun and games began with the ANIMALS personal mechanic, Uncle Aad (Art)….. Who not only changed the tyre over for her…..but protected her from a group of obnoxious German tourists who were having a field day gawking and touching her……dangerous when she is perched on a pannier with her rear tyre off! We have now perfected the three pronged approach ……Vince Asks (no response other than them shushing him) …..I Tell (backchat and cheek but no movement), and Art Enforces (armed with a tyre leaver he barged past me and pushed two of them back from the ANIMAL)……it worked! Our tour guide had eyes as big a saucers….I don’t think he has had much dealings with Aussies who are under pressure and pissed off!

We apologised to our other tour mates for the hold up and we we’re soon back on the road and stopping for lunch. Whilst the others had lunch, Aad (Art), Mike and Vince managed to track down an angle grinder to change over Mike’s chain……its been a mechanical kind of day….for us bike riders! (The Mercedes Sprinter had to stop the group the other day due to windscreen and turbo problems….and the next day after this had two flat tyres).

After a quick lunch of fried noodles, vegetables and egg ( 3000 Kyet for two) and green tea we were on the road again. The rain was already torrential as we mounted the bikes and it wasn’t long before we were completely soaked through. We retraced our way back the way we had come and then continued onwards to Inle Lake. We arrived at our hotel around 4.00pm and were hassled by the zone collection guy who was completely oblivious to the fact that we were dripping wet, trying to unload our bikes and might have more pressing things on our minds……if he wanted money(10,000 Kyet each) he was going to have to wait!

Settled in our room I washed out some clothes….sent others (my riding gear) to the hotel laundry….and set up our room to dry out as much of our stuff as I could…..our panniers had leaked so everything had to come up three flights of stairs, panniers completely emptied and all equipment dried off…..a really big job!

We walked with Aad, Mike, Claire and Emeil to a nearby restaurant and had a simple dinner ( 16,000 Kyet for Vince and I )….then we asked about desert but they didn’t have any…..disappointed we left but Claire spotted a pancake sign and we discovered the most delicious pancakes (5,000 Kyet for 2 pancakes and 2 hot chocolates).

It was an early night as we were bushed!

I was already awake when our alarm went at 5.45am to get ready for our early breakfast at 6.30am. I had checked my email and no reply from Win….disappointing. At breakfast there were no tour staff and Vince spotted Win at a far away table in the corner. Once breakfast was over, Nyi came to give us details about the day…when he finished I thanked him but informed him we would not be coming….he looked shocked….I explained that I had emailed Win and was awaiting a response. He went and got Win who reluctantly came over and said he had not received anything……Vince went and got our IPad and I gave him time to read the email. He said he would contact his manager by phone. I spoke with “Min Min” and explained my concerns in a very business like way and he promised this would be addressed and we would not have to ride at night again. I have insisted they revise the schedule to ensure that the mileage and activities are achievable in the designated time frame and made it clear I will not pay another cent until I have evidence that this is in place.

A group meeting was organised and the initial plan was just to change one day in the middle…that they admitted they knew would mean riding at night! I again reiterated that this did not address today’s plan which also was unachievable….we were not going anywhere……this included Aad (Art) and Mike! Whilst this made things difficult in that the 4×4’s were being held up due to our refusal to go….l was unwilling to put our lives at risk again and when one of the German tourists tried to force a “democratic vote” I immediately retaliated with the fact that as palatable as this might sound…..our lives were not up for anyone else’s vote, we were not moving, and they could proceed without us….we would organise an exit strategy from the tour and make our own way. Nyi tried to explain that due to elections we had a special permit and needed to go together…..but the riders refused to budge….unless a doable alternative for today was on offer we were staying put and that was the tour company’s problem! It wasn’t pleasant but unfortunately it was necessary. In the end we negotiated a shorter stop in Kalaw, rather than Inle Lake ( a further 2 hours at least onwards)…..so we all left around 8.30am and took the major highway….we stopped briefly to photograph the famous Jade Pagoda from the roadside. We came up through the mountains and the scenery was beautiful…it rained and we did get wet, but not soaked. We arrived at the hotel, Eastern Paradise, around 3.30pm ….much better! Win came and spoke with me directly and explained a new schedule was being put together and would be presented to the group at dinner at 7.00pm……..so things were looking to be much better so far….fingers crossed! The meeting was a little tense with everyone anxious to see what would happen….to be honest I was not really that hopefully as my confidence in Win was low given the way he had tried to avoid things…..but I was very pleasantly surprised. He had come up with what appears to be a workable solution and although it meant we missed out on some things, the majority of the tour could remain intact, just more direct routes (rather than zig zagging) and the assurance we will not travel at night…..all good….all stations go!

The day started off in Gangaw, at the Kaung Myat Thu Hotel, with a bang for Vince and I with our iPad alarm failing to wake us (it had not been able to connect to the wifi due to power cuts so had not adjusted to the 1 hour ahead time change in Myanmar!) I had got up to visit the toilet and absent mindlessly checked the time only to suddenly realise we had 15 minutes to get up, dress and pack the bike before our 7.00am departure. I quickly woke Vince and it was the fastest we have ever moved….even half asleep. With Aad (Art) and Mike’s help to carry out our gear to the bike we got it packed with minutes to spare and were on our way.

It was a new day and at our 30min breakfast stop everyone was in good spirits….great! Unfortunately, our breakfast of local fare was not really to our liking so we left feeling empty and hungry. We headed for Monywa, a five and a half hour drive away, where we stopped for lunch. I had hoped to avoid the overload of wasted food from yesterday and just order one thing….but it was a buffet at 2500 Kyat each. I didn’t want to be difficult so thought I could just go with it and select what I wanted….but NO…..it was the same deal as yesterday with about 25 little dishes of unidentifiable stuff arriving. After trying a few…one in particular I had to spit directly back out onto my plate (it was so foul tasting I thought I would vomit). Win came to talk to me and explained that we were supposed to go see the Big Buddha but that would take and hour and a half and we still had a three hour drive to Mandalay after that (our itinerary also showed a visit to Amarapurs to walk over the Bein bridge – the longest teak bridge in the world and watch the sunset – but no mention of this was made). I reiterated that avoiding driving at night was the priority so we would forego seeing the Buddha.

After lunch various people needed to change money so a few stops were made…..then we all had to stop to refuel. I was then confused when we went to the Big Buddha…..Win explained that a government official wanted to make a video of us to put on TV so I would have to forgive him if we ended up travelling at night….I told him in no uncertain terms this was NOT going to happen…..we needed to get on the road and to the hotel before dark….I went and told Vince, Aad (Art) and Mike and before we knew it the bikes were on the road! I later discovered that the “memory” shots the staff have been taking without our prior consent, and sometimes without our knowledge, have all been for publication/publicity/propaganda …….so I was furious and feeling totally exploited and violated……NOT HAPPY JAN!

Of course all the smiles and assurances of yesterday faded into oblivion and darkness engulfed us and we were again placed in a position of having to ride at night in highly dangerous conditions…..and Vince was very fatigued (a 13 hour day on the road yesterday and now a 12 hour day today……..he is so amazing …….and this is $&;@! rediculous…..we had several near misses…..including a near head on with oncoming traffic coming directly at us on our side of the road……and the support vehicle lost the 3 four wheel drives for over half an hour in the dark…..everyone is pretty much really pissed off big time!

When we got to The Little Bit of Mandalay Tavern we were all just so relieved to be alive and safe! As Win, our Tour Guide, gave me the key to our room, I calmly but firmly told him…”I am going to go to my room and calm down, as I am very angry right now….when I come back I want the contact details of your direct line manager and the owner of the company and you and I will have a very serious discussion!” The smile faded instantly from his face and he put his hand over it….I walked off. Vince didn’t even look at him….he told me later he was so livid he just wanted to punch Win in the face!

There was no sign of any of the tour staff at dinner….and when we enquired we were told Win had left the hotel and would not be back until 10.30pm….we were so exhausted we just had our dinner and went to bed….but not before I sent a detailed email to him demanding immediate assurances about our safety before we proceed any further with this tour and instructions to destroy the fraudulently obtained images of us……luckily we have not yet paid the balance of our tour due to wifi problems… So we do have some leverage ……..you can run but you can’t hide…..showdown at daybreak!