2 Up Adventures

Breakfast at our hotel, Yar Kine Thar Hotel, was around 6.30am ready for our 8.00am sight seeing departure in the tour company’s minibus….a bit swishy but we managed. Bagan is one of the most impressive sites anywhere in Asia…..Vince had seen images of the Bagan Plain Temples in a DVD and was really looking forward to seeing the real thing.

We drove to the small village of Wetkyi- in to see the wonderful Htilomin Lo Pagoda, which houses four Buddha figures on the ground floor and four more on the first floor. Then we visited the magnificent Ananda Phaya temple, one of the most reserved monuments in Bagan, with its amazing architecture and courtyard.

We stopped at U Ba Nyein, a bamboo and lacquerware factory,….where each of the ladies was given a gift of a small bamboo bracelet made in front of us….and the extensive and lengthy process of how they make and decorate the items was explained …..it takes a year to make just one bowl! The artisans were simply amazing and I was particularly impressed with a man who was hand carving the most intricate and beautiful water lily design by hand and eye…..unbelievable…..I am still gobsmacked at his skill! The showroom was filled with exquisite things…..luckily for Vince none had the water lily design…..so I bought nothing …..even though they do offer shipping home…..it really was out of this world what they can do.

We also saw the Dhamayangyi Temple, the most massive structure in Bagan which has a similar architectural plan to Ananda Temple. It was built by King Narathu (1167-70), who was also known as Kalagya Min, the ‘king killed by Indians’. After murdering his own father in order to become King, Narathu ascended the throne of Bagan and he built this temple to atone for his sins but he never saw it completed as he was assassinated.

At the Dhamayangyi temple (were I had trouble finding a toilet), Nyi, our guide, explained that depending on the day of the week you were born you get a certain animal totem…….he said most of his clients are all BIG Ainimals…… Stefan, Aad (Art) and I are Lions, Vince, Mike and Annett, are Garudas, Claire is a Tiger…….but Emiel is a Guinea Pig!

We ended the morning at a restaurant near our hotel….where Vince and I had the hottest green curry chicken we have ever tasted! (Lunch 19,400 Kyet for both).

By 1.00pm we were back at the hotel for a rest before being collected st 3.00pm to head off to catch a sunset view of the Bagan Plain Temples.

We stopped off at the Thatbyinnyu Phaya enroute to Shwezigon San Daw Pagoda, and whilst there we spoke with a local sand painting artist…….so talented!

At the Shwezigon San Daw Pagoda it was a long, steep, hot climb to the top and we had a long wait for sunset at 5.30pm…..but the group held our position to ensure we could try to get the best photos! The view was breathtaking and very special for Vince and I to share as part of our honeymoon……I really do have the best husband in the world….he takes me to the coolest places on earth!

Back at our hotel around 6.00pm we freshened up and went back to the same restaurant we had been to the night before……this time we ordered “beef burgers” and they were the most delicious home made burgers we have ever eaten…..so much so Vince and I ordered a second one to share. Desert was had ….along with some alcoholic drinks….beer for Vince and Pina Colada Cocktail for me…..yum! (30,700 Kyet for both)

We did a few routine chores back at the hotel and were asleep in bed by 8.30pm……what can I say …… we are such party animals!

We were up at 5.00am, bike packed……although some clothing we still damp so we bagged it up……breakfast at 6.00am in the Inle Apex out the door and on road by 7.00am. It was already raining …..guess my off bike “landals” (they are really just a pair of Keen Sandals but I call mine Landles (ladies sandals) and Vince calls his Mandals (man sandals) …….just to entertain ourselves!) were not going to dry off strapped between my dry bag and pack safe mesh as I rode along afterall!

After getting fuel we found ourselves coming back the way we had been previously, over the mountains, we were engulfed by the cloud and mist and along parts of the road it enshrouded us so we could hardly see in front of us…..quite dangerous and spooky! We were allowed to ride ahead of the 4x4s and we made good time arriving at the suggested lunch stop around 11.00am….we decided to just keep going until noon and would stop somewhere along the way. The boys all had a toilet break and I had to use my She Pee……and just like clockwork another 5 bikes (4 BMW GSAs and 1 KTM)…. we had met at the hotel over breakfast, who were travelling from Vietnam all pulled up ……Vince says I’m like a magnet for this ……but he managed to protect my privacy!

Back on the road time passed quickly and the rain had eased off….with only intermittent sprinkles now…..we pulled up at a small roadside store where we could see locals eating…..they looked a bit shocked but curious as the three big bikes pulled up and we descended. I struck up a conversation of sorts (via mime and sign language) with a small boy who was eating …..the elderly matriarch watched me carefully and I then approached her asking about food……she and another women offered me taste of a small and indescribable morsel……which was simply delicious I smiled and nodded and she smiled back……she then showed me a bowl of noodles and I smiled and nodded ……we understood……I beckoned to the others to join me…..before we knew it the group of boys had vacated the wooden bench seats and table for the new customers. We sat down and a small crowed gathered around us as well as out bikes……but everyone was very respectful. Vince alerts me to the existence of an elderly gentleman who was behind me and fascinated with my camera…..I got up and went to show it to him…..a serious of photos with he, myself and the matriarch ensued…..to much laughter and cuddles!

When lunch arrived we were personally served and shown what to do with what and how to eat it…….Aad (Art) was given s personal lesson in how to use chopsticks as clearly the local group had decided his skills were lacking and in need of remediation……much laughter and fun was had by all……I think we provided good entertainment! Showing my appreciation by smacking my lips, rubbing my tummy and blowing a kiss…..the faces beamed back at me with pride. I asked the price and the Matriarch said clearly “1200” ….I asked if that was each or all……..ALL! What a bargain…..lunch for 4 for about 25 cents each! I was using some hand sanitiser before and after my meal ( as there was nowhere to wash up) and I could see the group of women watching me and nudging each other to look ……completely mesmerised……so I got up and offered some to one of them. She quickly thrust out her hand and as I poured some of the clear liquid onto her palm she began to rub her hands together mimicking my earlier movements….before I knew it I was walking along the line squirting each held out palm to give it a go……hygiene lessons on the road in Myanmar!

We bade farewell to our new found friends and hit the road again……we arrived at the Bagan Zone Fee Check Point around 2.15pm, because we didn’t have sufficient local currency, where we parted with 40 Euro instead of the US$20 fee each…as we were not carrying any UD$ ….. which seems to be the preferred foreign currency here. We for over an hour for the 4×4’s and when they still hadn’t arrived Aad (Art) asked the ladies in the zone fee office to call Win…..we discovered the Sprinter had broken down (2 flat tyres)…..and they would be held up….so we to proceed to the Yar Kine Thar Hotel, we arrived around 3.45pm. We parked the ANIMAL, and the other two bikes, across the road in a compound…..joining the 5 Vietnamese Tour bikes. We could see them from our room and whilst I was unpacking Vince shot out the door in his underwear muttering profanities……I looked out the window and a local was sitting on a “double” take of our ANIMAL……of course it wasn’t her…..I could still see her safely tucked under her tarp……I followed Vince into the hallway but he was long gone and Aad (Art) was just standing there looking confused ….I think the whirlwind that was Vince must have flashed past him…..I quickly explained and he shot off after Vince…..it all got shorted with the local and his photographer friends being left in no doubt that you don’t sit on! or touch, someone else’s property!

I hung up the remaining damp things from our dunking in the lake yesterday to dry in our room whilst Aad (Art), Mike, Vince and I went out for dinner (19,000 Kyet for Vince and I ) at 6.30pm ……thankfully the rain had let up enough to that there was no further pannier leakage today ….and if fact, with the wind flow, even my Landals had dried!

Unfortunately, I had to ditch my favourite Icebreaker V Neck T-Shirt (had it since Jan 2007) as it has now become so threadbare that it keeps getting holes faster than I can mend……time to say good by my old friend…..snif, sniff!

We had breakfast in our hotel before taking a short walk down to the river to catch our boat for the day on the lake (4000 Kyet each plus a 2000 expected tip). We were in a boat with Mike and Aad (Art) so I ensured all 4 of us had taken some Ondansetron as we all suffer from sea sickness……it worked really well ….no casualties!

Before we knew it we were skimming along the shallow waterways of the 35km Lake in a traditional long-tail boat, noisy motor with a spray of water out the rear! Along the way we saw fisherman propelling their boats with one leg wrapped around the oar…..very unusual! We also saw them using their nets and standing on one leg……not really sure what that was about….but one fellow brought his boat up alongside and showed me a fish….he then asked for money….as we had taken advantage of his poses for our photos Vince gave him 1000 Kyet …..he seemed quite pleased with that.

The Inth people live on the lake, building their houses on stilts. We weaved our way through the watery streets between the many houses on stilts (Nampan and Innpawkhone villages) before stopping at a house where local families produce Shan (Mullberry) paper and parasols. It was fascinating to watch…..very interesting. Unfortunately, my camera battery had failed to charge and so ran out…..my spare was also flat ( since our multiple point charger broke in India we can only charge a few things at a time and it means some things take priority over others).

Back in our boat we move on to another cottage industry….silversmithing. Again we saw a demonstration of how they pour the silver….mixing it with copper to harden it…and the artisans showed us some of the traditional designs they make….such as the “full moon” …..I ended up buying a small one (US15) which they adapted in minutes to a larger bale so it could fit my Pandora bracelet that I am collecting as a souvenir…..very special!

Again, back in our boat we were quickly on our way to see how they weave traditional fabric designs from cotton, lotus (water lily) and silk……amazing! Some of th women working there were from the Kayan People….or Giraffe Women of Eastern Burma ….they wear brass rings around their necks from age 9 in order to provide a visual illusion that elongates them. I had a feel of the rings…..they are extremely heavy …a full set can weigh as much as 10kg. The women I saw also had them on their legs as well. I bought a cotton “longee” (US15) and they sewed some cords onto it to make it easier for “westerners to tie”. I wanted to get one for Vince but he refused, despite my encouragement I could not convince him. I also bought a beautiful red silk and lotus scarf (US65)……I know space is an issue but we need to post some stuff home soon so I yielded to the temptation……it was just so soft and beautiful!

We stopped off at the floating market….which was very touristy……but Vince and I managed to escape the hordes and sit in a little tea place and try some local food….delicious. Next it was off to lunch in the Royal Palace Restaurant…..our meals were very tasty (10,000 Kyat). As we went downstairs to the jetty to meet our boat ( we had three in total for the 10 tourists and their guides)….we were all busy chatting when I heard a loud “crack”…. It took me a moment or two to identify the noise when there were another two in quick succession…….still trying to process what was going on I realised my feet and legs were getting wet and before I knew it more and more of me was sinking and tilting to the left as the jetty collapsed below us……Vince and I wee at the end of the jetty so we took the brunt of the dunking down there…along with Aad (Art) and Mike and Claire and Emiel. It was quite alarming on the one had but on the other hand I felt strangely calm as Vince put his arms around me to hold me up telling me “l’ve got you and I won’t let you Go!” I did hurt my little toe on my left foot and Vince hurt his finger on his left hand…..but otherwise no drama. Before I knew it Vince and Aad were pushing me up onto the remaining wooden platform out of the water. I then turned to help pull Vince out! I’d had this weird feeling all day that one of us was going to end up wet …..I thought the boat may tip over or the water flood in…..as they are quite rickety and low in the water…..but I hadn’t considered that sinking feeling! The staff were all very helpful and got us a longee each to change into and some flimsy white T shirts……so Vince had to get into a longee afterall…….he looked very fetching I must say! Firstly they gave me a lovely blue cotton one….but it was for a man and the two girls who were helping us insisted that I must have a girls one…..so I changed again into a rayon brown and green one…….I must say as grateful as I was for the change…..I think the men’s ones are more comfortable……hmmmmmm they get all the good stuff! Vince said his was very comfortable! Who would have thought this would happen…..time stood still and then proceeded in slow motion, even though it actually all happened pretty quickly……. all part of the Adventure!

Resplendent in our newly knitted out local attire……needless to say we still failed dismally to blend in …not even little bit…….as we finished the day finished with a visit to the famous Phaung Daw U Pagoda, which enshrines five Buddha images believed to have been carried to this area by the widely-traveled 12thcentury King Alaungsithu then Nga Phe Chaung Monastery (Jumping Cat Monastery). Each year they are carried around on a special gold barge….vey impressive. On the way back we passed through the floating gardens where they grow tomatoes (for export), potatoes, chillies and all kinds of vegetables…….very ingenious!

Back at the dock we tried to pay for the boat and it was a bit of a process as all our money was wet and stuck together. In our hotel Vince spent the evening drying it out with a hairdryer whilst I hand washed all our wet things and added them to “Chung Whas Chinese Laundry (aka our hotel room) that had been set up to dry out the contents of our leaking panniers and the soaking we took yesterday in the rain.

The only saving grace was I had managed to sent out some washing (basically my riding jacket and pants, some T-shirts/shirts and some underwear and socks…..but when I went to enquirer at reception they tried to give me a pack of clothes (Room 305 which was correct) of other men’s clothes…..they had lost ours! It took a little time but eventually they delivered the correct ….and thankfully dry clothes to our room!

We were both exhausted …so an early dinner at local restaurant 68 (Vince and I cost 12,000 Kyet) with Aad (Art) and Mike….then off to the pancake place (Vince and I cost 5,5000 Kyet) for desert and bed…….Vince was asleep before his head hit the pillow!

It was a lonely, restless night in my single bed…… I always having trouble sleeping when Vince and I are apart and can’t snuggle up together…….so I was awake before our alarm went off at 6.00am to pack the bike….we had a bit of breakfast at 7.00am which was very nice ….especially having some fresh fruit….watermelon, pawpaw and banana….yum!

Our tour group went for a walk at 8.00am to the local Bazzar……it was quite interesting to see the various stall holder’s wares….but the fish stall sent me scurrying quickly away due to the smell!

I was unable to locate any glue for my boot (the one that had been repaired in Pakistan) which has lost it’s sole again and is currently held on with electrical tape….I am in a bit of a bad way really ….equipment fail wise……I have only one glove….the other was lost under escort in Pakistan….my Dryrider Jacket zip has failed for the third time (already repaired twice – in Ankara (Turkey) and then Varanasi (India))……so I can’t do it up at all….my Senna is currently held together on my helmet with electrical tape…despite replacing the sticky pad kit so many times I’ve lost count….so I’m a bit of a wreck at the moment!

Back at the hotel we were quickly on our way by 9.00am. Riding through the rural countryside was just beautiful as we saw the locals going about daily life….driving their oxen and carts, working in the fields, some, including women working on the roads and the children smiling and waving at us as we passed. The atmosphere was so different to India and the environment so much cleaner…..people here really take pride and it shows.

It took us a couple of hours to get to Pinday…..and at one point we corner marked for the 4×4’s so the would know where to turn but they still ended up turning right instead of left and we had to back track after them. Unfortunately, riding up the mountain we managed to get a puncture on some glass….when I dismounted I could hear the air rushing out of the rear tyre…..luckily we have been carrying the old ones with us…..the number of times I’ve cursed those dam things and they bounce into my spine…..and now I’m grateful!

Our guide, Win, stayed with the bikes whilst Nyi, our Burmese guide, took us to the Budda Cave….it cost 300 Kyet for each camera to be used and US$3 each entrance fee. It wa a pretty amazing place with over 8000 Budda’s. There was a maze to walk through and at the top of the cave was a meditation cave….we all had fun crawling into it and practicing our meditation poses! Further into the cave we saw where the actual cave ends.

Back in the car park the fun and games began with the ANIMALS personal mechanic, Uncle Aad (Art)….. Who not only changed the tyre over for her…..but protected her from a group of obnoxious German tourists who were having a field day gawking and touching her……dangerous when she is perched on a pannier with her rear tyre off! We have now perfected the three pronged approach ……Vince Asks (no response other than them shushing him) …..I Tell (backchat and cheek but no movement), and Art Enforces (armed with a tyre leaver he barged past me and pushed two of them back from the ANIMAL)……it worked! Our tour guide had eyes as big a saucers….I don’t think he has had much dealings with Aussies who are under pressure and pissed off!

We apologised to our other tour mates for the hold up and we we’re soon back on the road and stopping for lunch. Whilst the others had lunch, Aad (Art), Mike and Vince managed to track down an angle grinder to change over Mike’s chain……its been a mechanical kind of day….for us bike riders! (The Mercedes Sprinter had to stop the group the other day due to windscreen and turbo problems….and the next day after this had two flat tyres).

After a quick lunch of fried noodles, vegetables and egg ( 3000 Kyet for two) and green tea we were on the road again. The rain was already torrential as we mounted the bikes and it wasn’t long before we were completely soaked through. We retraced our way back the way we had come and then continued onwards to Inle Lake. We arrived at our hotel around 4.00pm and were hassled by the zone collection guy who was completely oblivious to the fact that we were dripping wet, trying to unload our bikes and might have more pressing things on our minds……if he wanted money(10,000 Kyet each) he was going to have to wait!

Settled in our room I washed out some clothes….sent others (my riding gear) to the hotel laundry….and set up our room to dry out as much of our stuff as I could…..our panniers had leaked so everything had to come up three flights of stairs, panniers completely emptied and all equipment dried off…..a really big job!

We walked with Aad, Mike, Claire and Emeil to a nearby restaurant and had a simple dinner ( 16,000 Kyet for Vince and I )….then we asked about desert but they didn’t have any…..disappointed we left but Claire spotted a pancake sign and we discovered the most delicious pancakes (5,000 Kyet for 2 pancakes and 2 hot chocolates).

It was an early night as we were bushed!

I was already awake when our alarm went at 5.45am to get ready for our early breakfast at 6.30am. I had checked my email and no reply from Win….disappointing. At breakfast there were no tour staff and Vince spotted Win at a far away table in the corner. Once breakfast was over, Nyi came to give us details about the day…when he finished I thanked him but informed him we would not be coming….he looked shocked….I explained that I had emailed Win and was awaiting a response. He went and got Win who reluctantly came over and said he had not received anything……Vince went and got our IPad and I gave him time to read the email. He said he would contact his manager by phone. I spoke with “Min Min” and explained my concerns in a very business like way and he promised this would be addressed and we would not have to ride at night again. I have insisted they revise the schedule to ensure that the mileage and activities are achievable in the designated time frame and made it clear I will not pay another cent until I have evidence that this is in place.

A group meeting was organised and the initial plan was just to change one day in the middle…that they admitted they knew would mean riding at night! I again reiterated that this did not address today’s plan which also was unachievable….we were not going anywhere……this included Aad (Art) and Mike! Whilst this made things difficult in that the 4×4’s were being held up due to our refusal to go….l was unwilling to put our lives at risk again and when one of the German tourists tried to force a “democratic vote” I immediately retaliated with the fact that as palatable as this might sound…..our lives were not up for anyone else’s vote, we were not moving, and they could proceed without us….we would organise an exit strategy from the tour and make our own way. Nyi tried to explain that due to elections we had a special permit and needed to go together…..but the riders refused to budge….unless a doable alternative for today was on offer we were staying put and that was the tour company’s problem! It wasn’t pleasant but unfortunately it was necessary. In the end we negotiated a shorter stop in Kalaw, rather than Inle Lake ( a further 2 hours at least onwards)…..so we all left around 8.30am and took the major highway….we stopped briefly to photograph the famous Jade Pagoda from the roadside. We came up through the mountains and the scenery was beautiful…it rained and we did get wet, but not soaked. We arrived at the hotel, Eastern Paradise, around 3.30pm ….much better! Win came and spoke with me directly and explained a new schedule was being put together and would be presented to the group at dinner at 7.00pm……..so things were looking to be much better so far….fingers crossed! The meeting was a little tense with everyone anxious to see what would happen….to be honest I was not really that hopefully as my confidence in Win was low given the way he had tried to avoid things…..but I was very pleasantly surprised. He had come up with what appears to be a workable solution and although it meant we missed out on some things, the majority of the tour could remain intact, just more direct routes (rather than zig zagging) and the assurance we will not travel at night…..all good….all stations go!

The day started off in Gangaw, at the Kaung Myat Thu Hotel, with a bang for Vince and I with our iPad alarm failing to wake us (it had not been able to connect to the wifi due to power cuts so had not adjusted to the 1 hour ahead time change in Myanmar!) I had got up to visit the toilet and absent mindlessly checked the time only to suddenly realise we had 15 minutes to get up, dress and pack the bike before our 7.00am departure. I quickly woke Vince and it was the fastest we have ever moved….even half asleep. With Aad (Art) and Mike’s help to carry out our gear to the bike we got it packed with minutes to spare and were on our way.

It was a new day and at our 30min breakfast stop everyone was in good spirits….great! Unfortunately, our breakfast of local fare was not really to our liking so we left feeling empty and hungry. We headed for Monywa, a five and a half hour drive away, where we stopped for lunch. I had hoped to avoid the overload of wasted food from yesterday and just order one thing….but it was a buffet at 2500 Kyat each. I didn’t want to be difficult so thought I could just go with it and select what I wanted….but NO…..it was the same deal as yesterday with about 25 little dishes of unidentifiable stuff arriving. After trying a few…one in particular I had to spit directly back out onto my plate (it was so foul tasting I thought I would vomit). Win came to talk to me and explained that we were supposed to go see the Big Buddha but that would take and hour and a half and we still had a three hour drive to Mandalay after that (our itinerary also showed a visit to Amarapurs to walk over the Bein bridge – the longest teak bridge in the world and watch the sunset – but no mention of this was made). I reiterated that avoiding driving at night was the priority so we would forego seeing the Buddha.

After lunch various people needed to change money so a few stops were made…..then we all had to stop to refuel. I was then confused when we went to the Big Buddha…..Win explained that a government official wanted to make a video of us to put on TV so I would have to forgive him if we ended up travelling at night….I told him in no uncertain terms this was NOT going to happen…..we needed to get on the road and to the hotel before dark….I went and told Vince, Aad (Art) and Mike and before we knew it the bikes were on the road! I later discovered that the “memory” shots the staff have been taking without our prior consent, and sometimes without our knowledge, have all been for publication/publicity/propaganda …….so I was furious and feeling totally exploited and violated……NOT HAPPY JAN!

Of course all the smiles and assurances of yesterday faded into oblivion and darkness engulfed us and we were again placed in a position of having to ride at night in highly dangerous conditions…..and Vince was very fatigued (a 13 hour day on the road yesterday and now a 12 hour day today……..he is so amazing …….and this is $&;@! rediculous…..we had several near misses…..including a near head on with oncoming traffic coming directly at us on our side of the road……and the support vehicle lost the 3 four wheel drives for over half an hour in the dark…..everyone is pretty much really pissed off big time!

When we got to The Little Bit of Mandalay Tavern we were all just so relieved to be alive and safe! As Win, our Tour Guide, gave me the key to our room, I calmly but firmly told him…”I am going to go to my room and calm down, as I am very angry right now….when I come back I want the contact details of your direct line manager and the owner of the company and you and I will have a very serious discussion!” The smile faded instantly from his face and he put his hand over it….I walked off. Vince didn’t even look at him….he told me later he was so livid he just wanted to punch Win in the face!

There was no sign of any of the tour staff at dinner….and when we enquired we were told Win had left the hotel and would not be back until 10.30pm….we were so exhausted we just had our dinner and went to bed….but not before I sent a detailed email to him demanding immediate assurances about our safety before we proceed any further with this tour and instructions to destroy the fraudulently obtained images of us……luckily we have not yet paid the balance of our tour due to wifi problems… So we do have some leverage ……..you can run but you can’t hide…..showdown at daybreak!