Galway to Limerick via the Cliffs of Moher

Posted by Karen on April 28, 2015
Posted in: Ireland.

We left the Travelodge in Galway around 10.30am…without breakfast… as they had a Contiki Tour of 60 in so no room for us. We couldn’t get dinner the night before because the kitchen was closed all day due to them changing all the bed’s over….and as charming as Shamous (the manager) was we still had to wait an hour for our room even though we arrived at 5.00pm!

It was raining, cold and miserable…so we had to decide whether or not just to say another night in Galway, go straight to Limerck and find accomodation, or go ahead with our original plan to see the Cliffs of Moher.

It was going to be a shorter day today on the bike …. So we decide to press on …going to the “Edge of the World”….the Cliffs of Moher. Enroute via the R478 we weaved our way up the aptly named Corkscrew Hill…quite difficult and steep.

When we got to the Cliffs of Moher, they charged us 6 Euro each for the privilege! Everywhere in Ireland costs these days…nothing’s for free. The cliffs are claimed to be the most amazing in the world (214m/700ft) with walks and views over the Atlantic Ocean. We had a nice, but pretty steep, walk….the rain had a short break whilst we were there and held off until the very end and then soaked us on the way back. We enjoyed it and walked up to the view point to the right with the castle and then over to the left to the top off the first cliff. It was not an easy walk and at times we had to climb over a style or two….not for the faint hearted or elderly. We didn’t enjoy all the other tourists…some people are so rude and inconsiderate….I guess we have been pretty spoilt with most places we have gone being a bit off the beaten track having few people to contend with. We also rode past the Burren ( a limestone and fossil like rock formation stretching as far as the eye can see and home to a variety of flora and fauna).

We headed on to Limerick and found a B&B (Ashgrove House) around 4.00pm and Helen was happy to rent us a room for 35 Euro each. It’s a bit expensive but I was feeling a bit sick with all the twisties we had today and needed to rest …so we took it.

Here’s a Limerick written in Limerick….

2Up Adventures are taking a motorbike riding trip

So the ANIMAL they sent on a really big ship

She went across the sea

and was waiting for thee,

Now the adventure really begins I’ll give you the tip

Dinner was found just around the corner, at the Shamrock Chinese Restauarant, built into the side of a petrol station. Dinner was bland and uninspiring, and walking back to our B&B a passing car clipped a puddle and showered me from head to foot in water.

Back at our B&B we spread out our tent and sleeping bags – still damp from camping at Portballantrae, and read our books in the evening.

Portballintrae to Galway

Posted by Karen on April 27, 2015
Posted in: Ireland, Northern Ireland.

We both had a restless night and were feeling cold…when we got up we realised why…there was frost all over the tent and bike….my air hawk was frozen solid!

This meant that some of the moisture had got into our tent making our sleeping bags damp! No wonder we felt cold. We put everything out to dry and went into town for breakfast at the Old Bushmills Inn….very warming and yummy!

Back at our campsite we packed up as best we could…although some things ( like the groundsheet) were not completely dry ….but the rain was on its way …so we hit the road by 10.30am.

We had a long drive (around 270 km taking 5 hours in the saddle) and the weather literally gave us all 4 seasons in 1 day ….rain, hail, snow and shine…..but always cold…in fact it really got above 2.5 degrees – and with the wind chill factor on the bike we were freezing …even with our electric vests. Enroute to Londonderry the snowflakes came so thick and fast they completely covered our visors and as fast as I wiped it clear it filled up again. I raised my visor to see but they were hitting me so hard in the face it felt like needles! Very scary ….as there was nowhere safe for Vince to pull over so he had to soldier on…he is amazing and I trust him with my life!

We stopped at Sligo for some lunch and to warm up a bit.

We knew we were in the Republic of Ireland once road signs changed from yards and miles to meters and Km and prices were now in Euros not Pounds.

We got to Galway around 5.00pm and eventually decided to check in to the Travelodge for a little comfort after a hard day….at 59 Euro it was a bargain compared to the UK.

Bushmills, Giants Causeway, Dunluce Castle and Derry

Posted by Karen on April 26, 2015
Posted in: Northern Ireland.

Today we set off to visit the Giant’s Causeway which is very impressive with is hexagonal rocks jutting up and matching the same across to the Scottish coast. Nearby we saw Dunluce Castle which sits right on the cliff edge and history says the kitchen fell into the sea. We followed the Causeway Coastal Route all the way to Londonderry, the walled city, in which my great grandmother was born and we walked the walls taking in all the sites including the Bogside Murals. Outside the Guild Hall they were trying to set a record for the most people in “onesies”. The attending paramedic for the event, Robert, came and spoke with us about our bike and ride and asked if he could take a picture. When we first arrive another punter, Phillip, came and chatted and gave us the benefits of his wisdom both about Derry and BMWs.

Back at Bushmills we visited the oldest licensed distiller in the world….but we had just missed the last tour and tasting!

We had a lovely meal followed by port by the open field at the Old Bushmill’s Inn …very decedent.

We camped a second night back at Portballintrae so we didn’t have to pack up and set up the tent all over again….we will leave Northern Ireland tomorrow on a long ride to Gallway in Ireland.

Larne to Bushmills via Antrim Coast

Posted by Karen on April 25, 2015
Posted in: Northern Ireland.

After breakfast at Derrin House in Larne we said goodbye to Ivy (our host) who suggested that we take a route many motorcyclist enjoy along Torr Rd from Cushenden past Torr Head to Ballycastle.

We set off following the Game of Thrones Location Map…Cairncastle – where Ned Stark beheaded a Knights Watch deserter and Catelyn captures Tyrion Lannister and where Bran,Osha and Hodor take a last look over Winterfell before heading North.

We didn’t go to Slemish, in the Shillanavogy Valley where Daenerys Targaryen learns what at Khaleesi is and she and the Dothraki ride the grasslands as it meant a detour from the coastal route we were on. 

We stopped at Glenarm, where we visited Steenson Jewellery Workshop that made all the pieces for the GOT such as crowns, lion pins, stag pins, roses etc.

Next we went to Cushendun but we couldn’t find the actual caves where Davos Seaworth takes Melisandre ashore to give birth to the shadow baby who kills Lord Stannis’s brother Renly.

We took the detour on Torr Road, Ivy had suggested, and Vince said it was the hardest, most challenging sealed road he’s ever ridden on. Predominantly ridden in 2nd gear, sometimes 1st, standing up on the foot pegs, his weight over the front wheel up the inclines to try to keep us steady. The road was so steep and the weight distribution with the panniers so biased to the rear, that the front wheel was lifting of the ground at times as we travelled up the steep hills. These were “rollies” with attitude. I kept quiet on the back as I was very scared.

We rode past Murlough Bay and Fairh Head… which were used as the road to Pyke where Thegn Grayjoy and his sister, Asha, ride on horseback and where Davos is shipwrecked after the battle of Blackwater Bay.

We stopped at Carrick-a-Rede Rope bridge and hiked the 3km there and back ….only to discover it was a very short bridge …a bit disappointing for the 5.90 (pounds) each they charged us. After the experience on the Torr Road it was nothing! Back to our GOT locations, Larrybane, nearby, is where Brienne is given a place in Renlys Kings Guard, Renly swears to Lady Stark he will avenge Ned’s death but is killed by the shadow baby. Magawry confides to Littlefinger she wants to be Queen and Davos tells Stannis what he witnessed in the cave with Melisandre.

We went to Ballintoy Harbour …Lordsport Harbour in the Iron Islands where Theon come homes and where he is baptised into the faith of the “Drowned God” and where the pirate, Salldhor Sann met Davos and pledged support to Stannis Baratheon.

We camped at Portballintrae and again didn’t cook, but we bought some supplies in Bushmills and made a simple snack dinner at our campsite, so we christened our plates and utensils. Our campsite cost 15 pounds per night and a pound each time you want to use the shower (on a 10 minute timer).

A few photos of Torr Road from the GoPro – they just don’t convey the steepness of the road …

Dumfries and Galloway, Raiders Road (Galloway Forest Drive) and the Ferry to Northern Ireland

Posted by Karen on April 24, 2015
Posted in: Northern Ireland, Scotland.

It rained overnight at Southerness, so we had a bit of a late start to let the tent and fly cover etc dry out before we packed it away in the panniers…we were pleased that things packed away neatly again …as this was the 1st time we had used them and you know how it can be when things never seem to go back quite as compact.

We were headed for Cairnryan, where we would eventually get the ferry over to Ireland. We were unsure if we would spend the night there and travel to Ireland tomorrow or whether we would get the ferry to Larne today.

Vince had another ride from the Great Motorcycle Tours of Europe book he wanted to do….the Galloway Forest Ride and maybe go offroad on the Raiders Road. We met some riders who had just completed it and they said there was only a bit that was tricky….we had some trouble with a hill of particularly loose gravel….but Vince made it to the top safely with both of us on board….I probably needed a double scotch at the time….I find off road much scarier than he does…but he says that’s why I’m Adventure Girl…I feel the fear and do it anyway…he’s trying to convince me I’m braver than I think…

We arrived in Cairnryan around 2.10pm and decided to check out the ferry schedule before getting some lunch and working out accommodation. I did a reccie and there was a fast ferry of 1 hour at 5.30pm or the next day a ferry at 8.00am and 1.30pm both taking 2 hours and again the fast ferry at 5.30pm.  I let Vince know and we decided on the fast ferry today. So we booked our tickets for two adults and a motorbike ….it was 69 pounds.

We went into the nearby town of Stranraer and had lunch at the Customs House …which claims to be the last house before Ireland. Then we had to be back at Cainryan to check in before 4.30 pm. We were at the head of lane 2 and were the first vehicle to be boarded….. this is the second ferry crossing the ANIMAL has done (the first being to Isle of Skye)….. we are getting good at this! Once on board we went to the bar and had a diet coke and some potatoe chips whilst we travelled over the Irish Sea to Larne. Happy to say neither of us were seasick…thank goodness.

It was raining when we left Cairnryan (Scotland) and when we arrived at Larne (Northern Ireland). We quickly managed to find a B&B at Derrin House, where Ivy made us welcome and it was only 63 pounds for a double. She also suggested a local restaurant for dinner ….which was Checker’s Winebar. Vince had a Guinness and made me try some …I didn’t like it. I had a very “Irish” chicken schnitzel – it was battered instead of crumbed and served with pepper sauce! Well, we are in Northern Ireland after all…..

Oh we do like to be beside the Seaside……

Posted by Karen on April 23, 2015
Posted in: Scotland.

After a wonderful breakfast at Castle Vale House we headed back to the Scottish border we had whizzed past last night and took some photos of the first and last house is Scotland. We then headed south to Beal to see the Holy Island Lindisfarne….where the Vikings first landed ….we were told it was unlikely the tide would be right until around 2.00pm ….so we through the we would only see it from  the mainland. However, the planets aligned for us, and when we got there, around 11.00am, the tide was out…..so we could drive across to the Island itself….Vince loves the series “Vikings” so this was special for him.

We then headed along the boarders ride that Vince has seen in “Great Motorcycle  Tours of Europe” by Colette Coleman, and we had a great ride with twisties and rollies ( our made up word for roads that go up and down like a roller coaster) including becoming airborne at one point! We spent around 6 hours on the bike today and arrived at Southernness in the early evening in time to pitch our tent for the first time …..the Mutha Hubba NX3 is a thing to behold ….easy to put up….spacious and well designed. Our research paid off and the performance of our new Thermorest Neoair Everglade pillows and Thermorest Neoair Xtherm mattresses was impressive …. I guess you really do get what you pay for. We didn’t christen our Dragonfly and cook though …we got a meal at the local pub instead and met some very colourful local characters there including Greg from Glasgow (who claims to have climbed Ben Nevis) and Peter and Sharon from Ayr who take it in turns to get drunk.

After dinner we settled in for the night cuddled up in our little tent….we like camping! And at just 14 pounds so does our bank balance! Parkdean is a holiday park and although it’s “Butlins” type set up is not really our style …the toilet, shower and laundry facilities were exceptional and the site had power – not that we needed that!

Oops …. Who dropped the ANIMAL!

Posted by Karen on April 22, 2015
Posted in: Scotland.

As part of the up and down day we have had ….I’m sorry to say that the ANIMAL fell over for the first time today…..no one was hurt …in fact no one was actually on her at the time….we were at a fuel stop.

Now when you are two up …there is a rider and a pillion…and who do you think is in charge of the ANIMAL?….so who dropped her?…..was it Vince or Karen?…

I know it’s unbelievable but it was me…..Vince went in to pay and I just put my hand on the softbag and over she went….it was like slow motion….nothing I could do to stop 250kg from just falling over….I thought to myself oops…no way I can hide this one ’cause I can’t lift it up myself before he gets back and pretend nothing happened…..luckily no damage was done and we discovered that we can lift the bike together (I’m stronger than I look) ….useful to know …..scared the crap out of me at the time though…and Vince is never going to let me live it down!

 

An Up and Down Kind of Day

Posted by Karen on April 22, 2015
Posted in: Scotland.

We left the Habitat Bunkhouse in Ballanter after we made our own breakfast of cereal and milk (purchased the night before from the local Co Op) and headed for Aberdeen to visit Vince’s relative. Whilst there we met Derek and his Harris Hawk, Zeus. They are one of two falconers working in Scotland as part of a Seagull control program. The Harris Hawk ( who originate in Argentina and are purchased by the falconer at 26 weeks and then become food imprinted) just fly around and their presence has two effects, firstly if a Seagull is carrying an egg and it gets frightened the egg dies, and secondly if nesting the egg must be incubated constantly, if left for more than 30 min it will die. So the bird of prey just by flying around scares the Seagulls and helps control the population. It was very interesting to talk with Derek who told us it takes 10 years to become a master falconer and he has been doing it for 3 years, he has had Zeus for 1 year. Very cool!

We arrived in Aberdeen about 10.30am and left about 2.30pm heading south towards Edinburgh via Perth.  Unfortunately the motorway did not pass through Perth itself so we didn’t stop off and the traffic for Edinburgh was so horrendous we decided to by pass it as well. As it was the A1 had a truck break down and it took us over 2 hours to travel just 8 miles…..very scary on a bike in such heavy traffic …. and testing of our patience as some drivers got so close they were almost touching my left leg….I gave him an Aussie one finger salute and told him he was an idiot!

We had intended to camp tonight for the first time, but by the time we arrived in Berwick Upon Tweed it was around 7.30pm and we were very hungry as all we had eaten all day since breakfast was a Mars Bar at a fuel stop ( more about that in the Ooops post) . So we eventually found a B&B at Castle Vale House, run by Margaret and Justin…who kindly gave us a reduced rate for the night (of 60 Pounds instead of 80) as we arrived so late. We took a walk along the river and found that most places were closed for food …it was around 8.15pm…but we eventually found an Indian place ….very expensive at around 45 pounds for two dishes and drinks and some papa dams ( which we thought were bing offered complimentary!) ….any port in a storm.

So all in all an up and down kind of day today!

The Real Top of Scotland…Dunnet Head

Posted by Karen on April 21, 2015
Posted in: Scotland.

We got up early and sneaked down to the sign for John O Groats….and got a photo of our bike there ….which you are not really suppose to do …but hey ….I won’t tell if you won’t!

We left JOG at 8.30am and went to nearby Duncansby Head where we saw the lighthouse and the Old Stokes (rock formations). The wind was howling and very cold. Next we visited Dunnet Head  which is the most Northerly part of the British mainland, whilst JOG is generally thought of as the most northerly point…it actually isn’t ….so we walked to the top of Dunnet Head and although you had an almost 360 degree view it was so windy and cold it made it impossible to stay there very long.

Either way you call it …we have been to the top of Scotland!

We headed westward back along the North Coast and then turned inland and went back along different back roads until we eventually met up with the A9 and travelled back via Inverness, through the Cairngorm National Park…along the Malt Whiskey Trail to Ballater in Aberdeenshire. It’s near Balmoral Castle and has a very Royalist feel about it. We have come this way to enable us to visit Vince’s Aunt who lives in Aberdeen ….as we try to get back on track with our schedule as best we can.

John o Groats

Posted by Karen on April 20, 2015
Posted in: Scotland.

We were hopeful to be moving on and said our thanks and goodbyes to Moira and of course Archie and Gigi ( the golden retrievers). After Dr Mike Wells gave me the all clear and discharged me from Raigmore Hospital (he was so impressed as he thought I would be at least another week) we were finally back on the road …..

Off to John O Groats …we left Inverness and headed North on the A9 and then went inland to Helmsdale and explored the back roads up to Melvich on the coast…from there we turned eastward travelling through the various small villages along the coastline through Thurso, Dunnit and finally onto our destination of John O Groats. We were very excited as ever since watching Borman and McGregor it has been a goal to tick this box! Whilst there we met another biker rider, Wil and a hiker, Andrew. We ended up all having a meal together and sharing stories of our travels. It was a really special time for Andrew who had just finished walking from Lands End to John O Groats….so we were thrilled to help him celebrate….CONGRATULATIONS on such an achievement! It’s lovely when people make their dreams come true!