We had a bit of an adventure today…..finally out of the hotel in the last few days….thank goodness! We wanted to send some stuff home to save weight on our bike and the hotel staff told us there was a post office on second street….unfortunately there must be some Irish Iranian city planners, because the streets don’t really run in order very well. We eventually found it with help from a local shopkeeper…after walking miles in the heat….but they only send letters not parcels….so we were given further directions…further walking in the heat…and eventually found the right place. It was a mission to fill in the forms, which were in farsi, and it cost us an arm and a leg to send under 3 kg to Australia (1,680,000 IRR or around $80 Australian) but we got it done.

By the time we concluded our business at the post office it was lunch time…yes that’s how long we were walking around searching! Vince spotted a very Western type of place a few doors down so we popped in for lunch.

We then caught a taxi to take us to the National Museum of Iran….but the driver obviously had a problem, as he pulled up outside a local pharmacy, ran in then out again, all without a word. Vince and I just sat looking at the empty driver’s seat as traffic whizzed around us..and laughed. They do things differently here.

We eventually got to the museum and it was very interesting…. it has been running for more than 70 years, containing 300,000 museum objects in an area more than 20,000 square meters. It is the largest museum of History and Archaeology of Iran, and ranks as one of the most prestigious museums of the world with regards to volume, diversity and quality of its contents. It states it’s aims as preserving relics of the past, enhancing better understanding among world peoples and nations, and enhancing public knowledge.

It has lots of things from Persepolis….where we went when we were in Shiraz so we found this as an extra dimension to the exhibits for us. We really liked the statue of a mastiff, from the south east tower of the Apadana of Persepolis and we saw photographs of when it, and a three lion statue, were uncovered and then were able to see the actual items on display…..very exciting and beautiful. It made us feel a little like explorers!

One of the most unusual items we saw was Saltman 1. He was discovered in the Chehrabad salt mines, located on the southern part of the Hamzehlu village, on the west side of the city of Zanjan in Iran.  By 2010 the remains of six men in total had been discovered, most of them accidentally killed by the collapse of galleries they were working in. In the winter of 1993, miners came across a body with long hair, a beard and some artefacts.  These included the remains of a body, a foreleg inside a leather boot, three iron knives, a woollen half trouser, a silver needle, a sling, parts of a leather rope, a grindstone, a walnut, some pottery shards, textile fragments and a few broken bones.  The body had been buried in the middle of a tunnel approximately 45 metres in length. After archeological Carbon 14 dating, of different samples of bones and textiles, the Salt Man 1 was dated to about 1,700 years ago. His hair and DNA determined he was 37 years old and his blood group was B positive. His head had an injury indicating a blow prior to death and he had a gold earring on his left ear indicating high status….it is unknown what he was doing in the saltmines. The head and left leg (in a leather boot) of Salt Man 1 are on display at the National Museum of Iran and it was bit gruesome but interesting at the same time. Vince spent his time clowning around trying to scare me….but I’m made of sterner stuff than that! (haha)

After the museum we went to catch a taxi back to our hotel and whilst waiting a mini-van/small coach crashed into a motorcyclist. We went to help but luckily the man and his pillion were fine….only minor injuries not requiring any treatment….and they just kept saying “thank you Mrs” as I stayed with the rider and Vince lifted up his bike. We’ll given the crazy way the traffic is here I am surprised it is the only accident we have seen so far….but happily no big drama this time!

We will have a quiet evening and start our packing and preparation for Pakistan….tomorrow we are expecting to drop off our passports in the morning and pick them up in the evening with our Indian Visas in them…..maybe only for one month and single entry….but we are still hoping the Embassy may grant our request for 3 months, multiple entry….we live in HOPE!

Situated within the Central Bank of the Islamic Republic of Iran, since 1955, the Treasury of National Jewels (Iranian Crown Jewels) is held in a very secure vault. It is a collection of the most expensive jewels of the world, collected over centuries of turbulence, and is so unique it cannot be valued. We were not permitted to take photos or bags inside and had to go through several security checks….including one were I was not only pat searched but had my breasts felt up as well by an Iranian woman…..very strange – not sure what she thought I was hiding in there! Once all the checks were behind us we entered the lower level vault.

We saw the actual Takht-e Khurshīd (Sun/Peacock) Throne, that we had only previously seen a replica of in the Golstan Museum/Palace on our last trip to Tehran….it was magnificent and set aside in a separate area behind glass. The original was moved to the Treasury on 6th September 1981. It was made for Fath-Ali Shah Qajar and uses gold and loose stones from the Treasury. The sun at the top is encrusted with precious stones and gave it its name. After his marriage to Tavous Tajodoleh it changed to be called the Peacock Throne due to her being his favourite wife, called Lady Peacock.

Inside the vault we also saw his diamond, emerald and ruby set crown, the Kiani Crown. It is made of red velvet with 1800 small pearls (some only 7 mm in diameter) sewn on.  The crown is 32 cm (12.5 in.) high and 19.5 cm (7.5 in.) wide. Traditionally the Kiani Crown was used for coronation of the Qajar Kings, but in 1925 Reza Khan Pahlavi had the Pahlavi Crown made using selected stones from the Treasury for his coronation on April 25, 1926 AD (although the Kiani Crown was still present). The Pahlavi Crown was also used in the coronation of Mahmmad Reza Pahlavi on October 26, 1967 AD. Made of gold and silver, and decorated with diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and pearls it also features red velvet fabric. On the 4 sides of the crown are battlement designs and sunbursts totally set in diamonds. Inside the front sun design, there is a very large yellow diamond. The Crown hold the following precious stones: 3,380 Diamonds: 1,144 carats,  5 Emeralds: 199 carats, 2 Sapphires: 19 carats and 368 perfectly matching Pearls. Total weight of the crown is 2,080 grams.

Further inside the actual vault, we also saw the original smaller throne with the leopard/tiger (the Nadir Throne I think) that we had also seen a replica of in Golstan. Truly beautiful!

There is no information about the quality and quantity of the treasuries before the Safavid period when the monarchs began recording the history.  The Safavid monarchs, over two centuries (1502 to 1735 AD), started to collect rare and beautiful gems. The gem specialists of the Safavid court brought fine stones to Esfahan (Isfahan), the capital of Iran at that time from the markets of India the Ottoman Empire and European countries like France and Italy. Subsequent rules and conflict saw the treasury was scattered and some of the jewels were stolen. Eventually  some were returned under the ruler Nadir and preserved for Iran. Abdali, one of Nadir’s commanders, looted the treasury. One of the famous jewels that left Iran at this time and never returned was the famous “Kooh-e-Nur” (Mountain of Light) diamond. This diamond passed on to several other hands until it eventually ended up in the East India Company after a British victory (1850 AD) and it was given to Queen Victoria as a gift and it is currently in the late Queen Mother’s Crown in England.

There was no major change in the Treasury until the time of the Qajar dynasty. During the Qajar period, the Treasury was collected and recorded. Some of the stones were mounted on the Kiani Crown, the Nadir Throne, the Globe of jewels, and the Peacock Throne (or the Sun Throne). Two others items that were gradually added to the Treasury, are the turquoises from the local turquoise mines which are precious in Iran, and pearls, originating from the Persian Gulf.

The famous Darya-i-Nur (Sea of light) is the largest pink diamond of the world and takes the first place among the diamonds in the National Treasury of Iran. Nasser-ed-din Shah believed that this diamond was one of the gems decorating the crown of Cyrus (558 to 529 BC), and was very fond of it. He wore it as an armband, aigrette or as a brooch. The weight is approximately 182 carats, and it is a rare pale pink colour. The frame is set with 457 diamonds and 4 rubies. In 1965, during the research by a Canadian team on the National Jewels, it was discovered that this diamond was orginally 242 carats (Diamonda Grande Table) from India, and was cut into two to create the Darya-i-Nur (Sea of Light) mounted in a broach, and the other part became the 60 carat Nur-ol-Eyn (Light of the Eye). The stone is presently mounted as the principal diamond in the wedding Tiara (The Noor-ul-Ain) made for the Iranian Empress Farah Pahlavi’s wedding to Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi in 1958. It is a modern design, featuring 324 pink, yellow, and white diamonds set in platinum and weights around 2kg, and is held in the Treasury.

We were very impressed with the Globe of Jewels, made in 1869 AD by order of Nasser-ed-din Shah it is about 66cm in diameter. A group of Iranian craftsmen made the globe using 51,366 loose stones, weighing 3,656 grams, from the Treasury. The net gold used is 34.00 kilograms. The oceans and sears are emeralds and the land is made of rubies.  Southeast Asia, Iran, England and France are specified with diamonds. India is shown in pale rubies. Central and South Africa are shown in sapphires. The equator as well as other geographical lines is in diamonds and rubies. The stand is of gold and studded with gems. Breathtaking….we found Australia!

I picked out a broach and a tiara I liked…..neither of which are the main attractions….but I’m sure they would still miss them ….LOL (Only Joking).

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See here for some photos of the jewels held within the ‘Treasury of National Jewels’ (or search for that term using Google Images):

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=treasury+of+national+jewels+iran&biw=1235&bih=672&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMIs7m1-YauxwIVA7QaCh1e3QtX

We started the morning not really knowing what the day would bring.

We tried in vain to contact the Indian Embassy to check on the progress of our Visa applications but couldn’t get through by phone with no response to our emails. We decided to ring Perth Embassy to ask for assistance and this was given…but the outcome, via email later in the day, had us no further forward as Tehran just said that they had not heard back from New Delhi and again offered the option to fly the bike…..they just don’t get it! With my operation only yesterday Vince asked if it was possible to save us the 2000km return trip back to Tehran (should the answer be a Yes) and collect the visas in Zahedan but this was denied. If they are going to issue the visas it will be via Tehran.

We also knew that Reza would be in contact with the Pathology Lab and try to get some results today but we were not sure when. He popped by at breakfast to let us know that he would contact them at 9.00am when they opened. He then got back us to let us know that they had told him to call after 2.00pm. So we decided to go for a bit of a walk around the local area whilst we waited…..I think the waiting is always the hardest and most stressful part.

It was very hot, so we became “shade seekers”, hunting out any snippet of shade we could find as we walked. We met some men who had soft serve ice creams and we asked where they got them from…..sign language indicated go ahead then turn left. Sure enough we found a shop with ice cream, so we bought a couple and sat in the shade to eat them…delicious, and they did cool us down.

We walked the length up the street and crossed the road at the end, where we found the fruit shop that had helped us out with directions the day we arrived. We proceeded to buy 3 bananas and 6 peaches…..the man standing next to Vince insisted on paying for our fruit as a welcome gift to Iran. Vince tried to refuse politely, but the man was having none of it and not content with that, he then proceeded to give us some of the pistashio nuts he had already bought as well.

We walked back up the road, on the opposite side this time, and came across another grocer selling watermelon. I picked one out and took it to be weighed…but the man just shook his head and put it to the side and went to go and pick a better one for me by tapping and listening to each melon in turn until he found one that met the grade…apparently my watermelon selections skills are remedial and could do with some work….. it cost us about A$1. Whilst this was going on an older man had struck up a conversation with Vince and was happy to welcome us to Iran.

As we continued our walk back we came across a young girl with her father sitting on a motorbike. I asked if we could take a picture by holding up my camera and asking in English, and her father nodded. The lighting was difficult as it was around 11.00am and the sun was scorching but she was in the shade.

A little further on in our walk we came across a police motorbike….so Vince had to get me to take a picture or two, or three, or four.

Back at our hotel we rested for the afternoon in our air-conditioned room. 2.00pm came and went with no word from Reza. We had a late lunch, around 5.00pm, in the hotel caravanessi and waited for news. Reza came and told us that the results were still not in but maybe tonight. In the meantime we met an Aussie couple travelling overland in their 4×4 from Holland to Australia. Emil and Claire (This Life Outside – Global Adventure) came and joined us sitting on the day beds in the caravanessi, and we all shared tales of our adventures and life……we will try to catch up with them to travel through Pakistan (safety in numbers)…..if we ever get our indian visas. They shared some Dutch peanut butter with us and we shared our watermelon…..really yummy and refreshing….can I pick watermelons or what?

Around 8.30pm Reza came and told us that the Lab had called, the results were in but we needed to get there before they close at 9.00pm. Thursday and Friday are the weekend in Shiraz, so if we missed it we would not get the results until Saturday. We abruptly excused ourselves from our new friends and caught a taxi….because the traffic is so heavy in the evenings and taxis have their own lane so it would be faster. The traffic was absolutely manic and slow, even in the taxi fast lane. I nervously watched as time ticked by….wondering if we would make it in time….we got there just on 9.00pm and Reza and I dashed up the two flights of stairs, whilst Vince paid the driver (80,000IRR). The door was shut and initially there was no answer to the bell or door knocks. Eventually the door opened and three girls went to walk out….we were too late….or so I thought. Reza spoke to one of them and before we knew it we were all walking back inside and lights were getting turned on……I was handed an envelope and opened it up…..I looked at the paper in my hand and began to read the results…….no evidence of malignancy…….what a relief! I thanked the girl at the counter….hugged Reza and Vince in public…..I don’t care about the rules….I was just so relieved! We caught a taxi back to the hotel (50,000IRR) and the 3 of us had dinner. Reza’s wife called whilst we were eating and her first question was about my results….she and her daughter have been praying hard for me….as have my family back in Australia. I’m touched that there has been a lot of interest in my welfare here at the hotel, including the local taxi driver, the waiter, Uppersia staff, and the receptionist…..Iranians are very kind and caring.

I shall sleep well tonight!

Today we met Reza, our Guide and helper, at 8.00am for a tour of Shiraz City. We needed to start early as it gets so hot here in the middle of the day.

Our first stop was at Nasirolmolk mosque, were we saw the beautiful light coming into the room though the coloured windows (the pieces are held in wood not lead and the glass has a coloured film over it). It was very beautiful and mesmerising…very peaceful. We moved to another part where there was tomb of someone that people come to pray to.

Next we went to Narenjestan-e-Ghavam Museum (UNESCO world heritage listed). This building was used by the state representative in Shiraz from the capital (Governor’s Court). It was a beautiful building with very intricate mirror, mosaic and fresco work. Iran really does have incredible artistic talent. Here we also visited the museum and watched an artist at work on miniatures….such fine detail and brushes…we looked at this work through a magnifying glass.

It was starting to get quite hot and see stopped at a small shop to get some water before entering the Sa’dieh Mausoleum (the greatest Iranian poet). The gardens were beautiful and many people were paying their respects. Part of the complex included the “fish pond”, really a sub artesian well. People were throwing coins in ….a man with his family gave a coin to both Vince and myself to do the same…..Iranian’s are so generous.

We did have plans to visit the Delgosha Gardens and the Arg-e-Karimkhani (Karimkhani Castle) but it was almost noon and very, very hot….so we did a quick drive by and got dropped back to our hotel.

Rezza came to pick us up at 4.30pm to take us to Presepolis (city of Persians)…which Vince has been wanting to visit for ages. It was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire (550-33- BCE) and is about 70 km northeast of Shiraz. The earliest remains date back to 515 BCE. Unesco declared the ruins of Persepolis a World Heritage Site in 1979. It took us an hour to drive there, and we spent around 2 and a half hours walking around. We both thought it was absolutely fabulous. There is so much history here….it moved Vince beyond speech….he wanted to get his sleeping bag and stay there overnight to soak up every drop of the experience. It is very well set out for tourists, with information also provided in English. We trekked up the mountain to the tomb of Artaxerxes II. The guard wanted us to leave but we were hanging out for the sunset. Reza managed to convince the guard to let us stay….not only did we get awesome sunset shots….but we were the last to leave…..on the way out the guard showed us photos on his phone of Persepolis in Winter, covered in snow…and in Spring with a rainbow. It was really special!!!!

Many people stopped and said hello to us whilst we were there, and I helped a little boy and his family out who had hurt his foot….with my “magic cream”….amazing what a placebo will do! His Mother was most grateful as he stopped crying immediately she applied it! They didn’t speak English and I don’t speak Fasi, but we managed to communicate well. Reza joined us at the end and was able to facilitate the thank you conversation. A young couple from near the Caspian Sea were visiting and asked for a photograph with us…..to which we agreed. We realise we are a bit of a novelty in Iran…and we don’t mind cooperating provided it is done politely and not trying to turn us into some kind of freak show.

We were a little sad to have to leave Persepolis but it was getting dark and we still had an hours drive home, and we hadn’t eaten. Back at our hotel we had our dinner and went to bed. Vince says it’s the highlight of his trip to Iran….and I agree!

Well we started the day not really knowing what to do…..unfortunately over the last month I have developed what we are hoping is not another invasive squamous cell carcinoma. But it’s reached the point we need to get it checked out for peace of mind.

We contacted World Nomads (our travel Insurer) and they told us the process we need to follow but could not help with any names or contacts for Dr’s here. We asked reception but all they could offer was to go to a chemist and speak to the pharmacist…..hmmmmm I don’t think so!

Given our tight time frames my plan was to find a Dr…have it excised completely (no time for the biopsy run around) and send it off for histology. If necessary they can email me the results and if follow up is required we can deal with that then. That’s plan A!

Vince went back to our room (as wifi only works in the lobby) and whilst he was gone the “Angel of Mercy”, in the form of Reza Alizadeh, visited me. He had been talking with the receptionist in Fasi and I hadn’t realised they were actually taking about me. He approached me and offered his help….I asked if he was a Dr, to which he replied no, but he could help me find the right one.

One of his daughters is a surgical nurse and he called her for advice. Before we knew it we were being whisked away by taxi to the MRI hospital. Within minutes Reza had us through the reception screening and down to emergency. He explained to me that the Dr was on rounds and we would need to wait. In less than 10min the Dr arrived and Reza was up and talking to him as he walked. The next thing we knew we were called to a desk where I had to give my details – via Passport, and Vince parted with the equivalent of Au$10 as the Dr wrote out a referral for me to see the specialist on the 9th floor. Reza explained that this is the top man in his field (Dr Sodayfi) and it is normally at least a 3 month wait to see him.

Through security and upstairs, Reza worked his magic on the ladies at the front desk and we were told to sit down. Vince parted with the equivalent of around Au$20 and we had a bit of a wait…but eventually we were called through. The specialist could speak English but also spoke with Reza in Farsi. He examined me with two nurses present….as well as Vince and Reza….so it was a bit of a party really! He agreed it should be excised completely and sent for histology ….Yahooo! He wrote me a referral to the top plastic surgeon in Shiraz (Professor M. Hossain Rajabian) who can perform the procedure under local in his consulting rooms. He also wrote me a script for some creams for my rash…..as he could see I was quite red in this heat.

Back into another taxi around 2.30pm but the Doctor’s rooms were closed and we will have to got back tomorrow…..but at least we are moving forwards.

I’m a firm believer that the Universe sends you what you need when you need it….and we needed Reza today! Vince says it reminds him of the program “Touched by an Angel”.

Breakfast at our hotel, Safavi Hotel, was quite uninspiring after the breakfasts we enjoyed at the Tehran Grand Hotel. We spent a bit of time catching up on emails and our website etc and met our Guide from Uppersia in the lobby at 12.00pm.

It was a late start but as Friday is prayer day we would be unable to get into the Mosques in the morning. Vince and I were a bit concerned it might be too hot…but we really wanted to see some sights before we leave tomorrow – it all turned out okay as although it was hot we were mostly inside cool buildings.

Somayeh, our Guide was very knowledgeable about the places we visited and willingly shared some of her own life and insights into Iranian culture. She is hoping to immigrate either to Australia or Germany and run tours to Iran from there.

The Esfahan Royal Tour is a walking tour taking in Imam Square, 3 palaces and 2 mosques….so it is pretty full on. First we went to Chehelsotun Museum, which used to be a palace. This was not used as a residence, but as a palace for ceremonies and functions during the Safavid reign. The name related to the luck of number 40….and the 18 pillars, plus two at the back make 20 on the terrace. These were originally covered in mirrors and the reflection on the pool in front made the number 40. The entrance was covered in mirrors and was very impressive. There were many paintings on the walls and these related to the Shahs of the 1500 and 1600’s. There was also a display of the Qoran in kufic script with the seal of Imam Hassan (9th Century) behind glass….this is very precious in Iran.

Then we walked a little way to the Hasht Behesht Palace. It was build as part of the Safavid governing complex in the centre of the Nightingale Garden, hence the proliferation of nightingales throughout the artwork in the building. It has two floors, with about 20 symmetrical rooms with hexagonal elements. This was build by the Shah for his Herem and family. It was mostly a summer or spring residence but there were fireplaces to the women and children could come at other times also. The pool out the front was for them to swim in. The second floor was under restoration so we were not able to go up there, but we could see some of it from the ground floor. The rooms were beautifully decorated and Vince and I found the place very tranquil and cool….we even had a little kiss there as it felt so romantic…..we are not allowed to touch each other in public at all….so that was a bit naughty!

Next we walked towards Imam Square. Along with way we passed may Iranian families picnicking and having BBQ’s in the Park. Prayers were still happening at 2.20pm when we arrived so we decided to go for lunch. Somayeh took us to “Partikan” where we tried some authentic Iranian dishes….delicious! During lunch had us write in her note book she keeps on the people she meets….Vince wrote a bit about what to see when she gets to Australia, and suggestions of music and films to watch. I wrote some words of wisdom from our earlier discussions…..she cried when she read it…..but quickly regained her composure….she said I remind her of her mother. I told her she is only two years younger than my own daughter.

In Imam Square we visited the Ali Paqu Palace which has 6 levels and 94 steps to climb. In the entrance the courtyard has 4 corners where guards would face the wall when the Herem would pass. The people on the diagonal could talk to each other and no one else could hear…..we tried this out and it was amazing! This palace was used for politics and administration. The King would listen to peoples requests and make arrangements with other rulers….there was a reception room where foreign dignitaries met to discuss things and above it were some windows where the Kings wives from the Herem could look down and give a nod or not in approval. The most impressive room was the Music Room with fabulous acoustics due to holes in the ceiling….amazing the technology they had with limited materials all those years ago. One of the guards knew our guide and invited us into a “forbidden” room where Vince stole another little kiss!. Somayeh told us she has never been in there before. I took a photo of a fresco on the wall – that not many people would ever have seen….Vince says the lady is wearing a GoPro….I don’t think so! LOL

We then walked across the square to the Royal Mosque (also called Shah Mosque, Imam Mosque or Abbasi Mosque), where we were able to go inside. We could see the peacock in the centre of the dome and Somayeh explained about the way the light hits it to show its tail and about the script that is timed to be illuminated at sunrise and sunset. She also explained about the shrine and how humble the architect was. We then walked to a little “tea shop” where there were many young men partaking of the Shisha (Hooka) – smoking. We had some tea and some Iranian candy and sugar. We walked through the Bazaar and she showed us some camel bone boxes adorned with handprinted pictures. These have two little compartments with places for wedding rings…..we had earlier shared some stories as we had mentioned to some girls who stopped to talk to us that it was our honeymoon. She was quite intrigued by our blended family situation, and shared some of her own stories….pressure to marry as she is the eldest and her brother and sister can’t marry until she does. She is more interested in writing a book on Iranian people and culture with a German friend of hers.

We then walked to Shikh Lotfollah Mosque but didn’t go inside. By this time it was around 6.30pm so we said our farewells and headed back to our hotel.

After we finished at the Golestan Palace we took a short walk to the Tehran Bazaar. We were not interested in shopping….even though there were many beautiful things to look at, some of which would look good in our home back in Perth, we have neither the room in our panniers nor the money to waste sending things home …..previously we looked at some hand painted bowls in Turkey but it was going to cost twice the price for shipping/postage so we left it.

Our presence in the Bazaar spread like wildfire….they know when tourists are around. People kept coming up to our guide and hassling her to invite us to come to their carpet shops…..she eventually told them we had come from Esfahan and we had bought in Esfahan….so we were not interested any longer…..they accepted this and left us alone. Nerjes had explained to me previously that the police arrest and fine women for things like wearing too much make-up, painting their nails, wearing too tight a manteau or showing too much fringe in their Hijab….as we passed an underwear store she pointed out a garment label with a picture of a woman wearing a bra….she explained that if the police came past and saw that they would fine the shop owner as he should black out the woman’s face. We walked past the Shah Mosque whilst in the Bazaar, but you had to hire a Chador to go in…and I was already so hot in what I was wearing we decided to give it a miss. I don’t know how Iranian women don’t pass out from all the clothes they have to wear in this stifling heat?

After the Bazaar Nerjes asked if we wanted to eat in town, as it was around lunch time. She took us to “Moslem” a well known local restaurant, where we tried the traditional dish of “Tay Chan”, a kind of rice cake that you eat with lamb or chicken. We had the lamb and it was also served with a different kind of rice as well….that goes with “lamb muscle”….it was delicious. Whilst we ate, Nerjes shared some personal stories of how her family celebrates the New Year. There was a young dyed blonde woman at the table who not only had her hair falling around her face and shoulders, but also hanging down her back…..and a face full of make-up….I thought of the huge fine she would get if the police came by.

Next we walked …..quite some way….to Meidan Mashgh Square where we saw at the entrance to the National Museum. All the Museums are located around this square and if and when we return to Tehran we will try and visit some of them.

We booked a 4 hour tour (US$60 each) of Hidden Terhan with Uppersia Tours. Our guide, Nerjes, was already waiting for us in the hotel lobby just before 9.00am. We caught a taxi (150,000 IRR) downtown and commenced our walking tour starting with the UNESCO World Heritage listed, Golestan Palace.

The Golestan Palace (Palace of Flowers) is about 400 years old and was the official residence of the Royal Family when Tehran became the capital. It is in Panzdah Kordad Square and is the oldest historic monument in Tehran. It belongs to a group of buildings once enclosed within mud-thatched walls of the Arg (citadel) built during the reign of Talimash I of the Safavid dynasty (1502 – 1736). Golestan Palace complex has 17 structures in all including , public and private palaces, museums and halls. Most of it was built during the 200 years of the Qajarian Dynasty.

The main building is covered in beautiful tiles, marble (with Stucco work) and mirrors…..very impressive. We saw the artwork of the tiles in the building and she explained to Vince the symbolism. Moving past the Takht-e Marmar (Marble Throne), in the middle of a spectacularly decorated terrace (iwan), we could see it was surrounded by elaborate paintings, marble carvings, tile work, stucco, mirrors, enamel, woodcarvings and lattice windows. It was build in 1806 by order of Fath Ali Shah Qatar (1797-1834) and they used 65 pieces of special yellow marble from Yazd. It was used for coronations of Qatar Kings and formal court ceremonies. The last King to have his coronation there was Reza Khan Pahlavi (r. 1925-1941) in 1925. (Note the coronation of Mahammad Reza Pahlavi (r. 1941-deposed 1979) was in the Museum Hall not the Marble Throne.)

In the Khalvat-e Karim Khani (cosy corner of previous residence terrace) there is a small pond with a fountain in the middle of the trace and water from a subterranean stream flowed from the fountain into the pond via gravity. We also saw the magnificently carved, one piece marble tomb bearing the effigy of Naser al-Din Shah. He was assassinated by Mirza Reza Kermani, when he was visiting and praying in the shrine of Shah-Abdol-Azim. An old rusty revolver was used and it is through he might have survived if his clothing was thicker or the shot was at a longer range. Naser al-Din was originally buried in the Shah-Abdol-Shrine (where he died), in Rayy, near Tehran but is now at the Golestan Palace.

Next we visited the Talar-E Aineh (Hall of Mirrors)…unfortunately we were not allowed to take photographs here….I guess if you did you would be “fed” to the lions out the front guarding the impressive doors. It is famous for its exquisite, and extraordinary mirror work…..it was unbelievable the intricacy of the jigsaw of mirror work that filled the rooms, scubas the Talar-e Berlin, famous for its mirror work and chandeliers. We also had to put coverings over our shows to go in. Upstairs in Talar-e Salam (Reception Hall) which has mosaic floors, we saw replicas of the famous Takht-e Khurshīd (Sun/Peacock) throne which is like a platform and a smaller throne I can’t remember the name of (Nadir Throne) more like a chair. At the bottom was an animal that I thought was a leopard or cheata …Narjes said it is supposed to be a tiger to show power….but she thought it was really a cheata…..because Iran has Cheata, Zebra and Bears…..I was astounded by this. Another Hall, the Talar-e Adj (Hall of Ivory) I think, was a dining room and hosted models of 4 of the Kings. In a separated room was a model of with a model of Naser al-Din Shah with a model of a famous painter painting him. We saw many gifts from other countries to the Kings in the Talar-e Salam, including an impressive China collection in the Talar-e Zoroof. Vince was more interested in the meteorite that was in a glass case.

We walked along and went into the Sahm-ol-Ebareh (Edifice of the Sun) and in its time was an amazingly tall structure (5 floors) built in the time of Nasser-ol-Din Shah.It was built in 1865 and took 2 years to complete. Inside it was previously a private palace and it had lovely fireplaces.

Nerjes told us about the Emarat-e Badger (Buidling of the Wind Towers) which was constructed in the time of Fath Ali Shah (1806) but was renovated during the reign of Nasser-ol-Din shah. The building is flanked by two rooms known as goshvar (earrings). There is a central room with boasts the finest stained glass window in the Golestan Palace. Nerjes explained that the stained glass windows are special because the colours hurt the eyes of flies, so the windows can be open and no flies come in. Also, it has healing properties for babies due to the light they produce.
There are four wind towers of blue, yellow and black glazed tiles and a golden cupola. They draw the cooling wind down through the towers, through water chambers below and then cool the building through lower ducts. Nerjes explained that people in the desert areas such as Bam, Kerman and Yazd.

We passed the Chador-Khaneh (House of Tents) between the Badger and Almas Hall. It was used as a Royal warehouse for their tents….the Qatar Dynasty loved camping. These were grand trips with many servants so many tents were required.

We spent about an hour and a half there and it really was quite fascinating. In addition to information about the palace, Nerjes shared with us some information about arranged marriages in Iran and how things have adapted to accommodation tradition as well as individuals wishes today. She shared the story of her own recent courtship and marriage (its her 1st anniversary on Thursday)….we felt very privileged. Throughout the day she also shared her views on women, tourists and trends I had observed. She confirmed that the “french” influence comes from one of the Shah’s and his wife, who had studied in France….to the extent that some French words, such as “Merci” are commonly used in Iran. It was very interesting.

Afterwards we went to see some other sites….I will blog these separately.

We have been in Tehran for four days and apart from the local street (for food and to buy a change of Manteau at Paris House….as I have to wear it each day and needed to wash my white one)…we have seen nothing of the city. There is a strange French influence here in their advertising, make-up and perfumes in stores and pictures of icons – such as the Louvre. I have read that the Ayatollah Ruhollah Moosavi Khomeini (founder of the Islamic Republic of Iran) spent time in exile near Paris….so I am not sure if that has any bearing on the French influence here.

The majority of our time has been at the Indian Embassy each day trying to convince a range of ever increasing officialdom that they should issue us visas that will allow us to travel to India via road. The official story is they only issue visas by air! I mean the ANIMAL is talented but even she can’t fly!

When we are not at the Embassy pleading our case to have the visa issued here, as we don’t want to risk entering Pakistan without onward visas in place, we are holed up in our hotel room, at the Terhan Grand Hotel, completing paperwork and wading through red tape and alternative options.

It really is the climax of what has become an ongoing saga….the information we received prior to departing Australia was that we could not organise the visa before leaving due to our travel timeframes and expiry…..as Indian Visas start from the day of issue and are only valid for 6 months – so ours would have expired before we got to India. We were told that we could apply whilst on the road at any Embassy. Most Australians get an eTourist Visa (Visa on Arrival) online and it’s a simple and straight forward process….but this was not possible for us as we were not flying into an airport.

Some Indian Embassy’s now outsource their visa applications which is why we approached the Indian Visa Application Centre in Geneva Switzerland – who checked by telephone with the Embassy whilst we were there but we were told, despite our raising the concern over the airport issue, that we needed to apply for an eTourist Visa (Visa on Arrival) online. We still thought that this did not really make sense, so we waited and then went to the Indian Embassy when we got to Ankara, Turkey. However, we were again told….after the person checked by telephone, that we needed to apply for an eTourist Visa (Visa on Arrival) online….and again were given the web details we already had.
We then tried to fill in the online forms but there was a question about which airport of arrival (a drop down menu for 9 approved airports) so we were immediately jammed up, as we will not be going via air but overland via the Wagah-Attari border, crossing near Amritsar. We did explain this to both Geneva and Ankara. We contacted the online support for help and their response was that we were not eligible for an eTourist Visa (Visa on Arrival) and needed to apply at an Embassy…..as we originally thought!

At that point we contacted the A/Consulate General of India in Perth, to request advice and assistance. Perth contacted Ankara and they asked us to come back to gain our Visas there through the First Secretary, who would assist us. Unfortunately, we were already 700km away and needed to leave Turkey….as our insurance was running out and we had to enter Iran. We explained this and we were told to go to the Embassy in Tehran.

This time, armed with more information, we managed to work our way up the chain a little bit ….Vince calls me the “Jack Russell” ….and eventually got to speak to the First Secretary. But basically Terhan has their rules and won’t budge…even with help from Perth, it is a hard slog.

Today we “might” have moved forward….fingers crossed…..yesterday the First Secretary agreed to put our case forward to New Delhi and if they approve he will grant the visas. So today, we attended what can only be described as a rugby scrum, that was the Visa Processing Section of the Embassy (they do outsource here but we could not go there as we are not Iranian Nationals). We arrived around 10.00am and the doorman sent us to another door. Once inside it was jam packed and very hot. People were pushing and shoving, several all at once calling to the two officials behind screens…..at two separate windows and one door…..quite amazing to watch.

We had no idea what to do or where to go…..a young Iranian student, who spoke English offered us advice….we had to approach the first window and they would take our name….then go and wait for the second window to call us. Without any real line as such we just joined the throng and waited for an opportunity to speak at the window….total chaos…..I’ve never seen anything so disorganised in my life…..think Centrelink in a lower socio economic area, with no ticket system, and you just might get a sliver of the idea!

Kindly, the young student called Vince forward, before him, and encouraged him to push his way through…..they took our name! We moved towards the second window and waited. The process was very slow, and some Iranian women stated asking us what we were there for….when they saw that we were just dropping off documents, they encourage us to push our way to the front to speak at the second counter…..reluctantly, Vince did this and we were told she would call him next. Once called, we were quizzed at length and given an extra form to complete (that really just repeated information already on our application). The visa officer was very abrupt, barking instructions at us and cutting us off after she asked us questions and we were trying to explain. Eventually, I had had enough and started mirroring her tone back in my responses…..this seemed to work. She had to go away and check on something….we don’t know what….and she claimed our Iranian Visas had expired as well as our Rego ….this was incorrect and we managed to point it out in our documentation. We had to pay 2,800,000 IRR…which she miscounted and wanted more money….but I argued the point and eventually she realised her error and processed our applications. We were then subjected to biometric screening (photo and fingerprint scan)…and now we wait! They estimate 10 days or so until we will have and outcome from Delhi. We left a little before 12.00pm ….so around 2 hours.

We were lucky, people were kind to us, and we got to lodge our applications…..I overheard one woman explain to a French couple that the centre closes at lunch time and those who have not managed to be seen have to come back the next day and try again!

We really hope the response is positive as the rest of our trip kind of depends on it, and we really want to see beautiful India!

Vince was still not feeling the best ….better than yesterday….but still not 100%. So we skipped trying to find any breakfast and just hit the road around 10.00am for the 315km ride to Tehran. Vince stopped for petrol and had a bit of bother getting the pump to work as they need “ration” cards….but it was all good and the fuel is very cheap here …1000 IRR (50cents Aust) a litre…..much better than the $2.50 we have paid in Turkey and elsewhere in Europe.

As we drove along many cars tooted, waved and rolled down windows to welcome us to Iran. The motorbikes here are all small, so the huge monster of a machine that is the ANIMAL sticks out like a sore thumb on the road and we attract a lot of attention.! One family who passed us in a blue car with a couple of kids in the back, held up a sign in English that said “LOVE”…..we gave it the big thumbs up as they pulled along side us. We had to pass through at least three or four toll booths and they all waved us on after asking where we were from and where we were headed….I thought they were being generous  until Vince pointed out that there are signs showing no motorbikes allowed on the expressway…..that’s because they can’t keep up with the speeds required. No one has questioned the ANIMAL being able to keep up….even the police who stopped us for speeding the other day just let us go with a caution to slow down….but nothing about not being allowed on the expressway! My husband is leading me a stray into being naughty I think! We saw lots of overloaded vehicles which is common place here …..Iran efficiency I guess…..no OHS? Why make six trips when you can just make one!

As we approached Qazvin we pulled over and there was the family in the blue car also pulled over….we stopped beside them and I called the kids over and gave them each a sticker….they were thrilled. I asked if I could take a photo and the family kindly obliged. They then asked us for a photo of Vince and I with the children and the ANIMAL of course….and we obliged for them. Smiles all round.

We had planned to stop at Qazvin for a break and maybe some lunch…..but by the time we arrived there around midday neither of us felt like eating much due to our tummies…so we just had a pack of chips and a water each. It’s so hot (36 degrees) here and our adventure riding gear is like wearing sauna suits at times so we have to try to keep our fluids up.

As usual, anywhere we stop everyone admires the ANIMAL and Vince is in his element socialising and sharing our stories and our plans to the eager audience. One gentleman, who had seen me give the children the stickers earlier, indicated by sign language that he would like one too …so I gave him one. Whilst we were there two Iranian women from Tehran, Manijeh who could speak some English and her Uncle’s Wife who couldn’t speak English at all, Soghra approached me. Sigher was very interested in the armour in my jacket and kept touching my spinal plate….so I tried to explain by acting out it was in case I fell off….the look on her face was very concerned….I let her feel the armour in my jacket and trousers…she was impressed. I realised afterwards….these women would never have seen a woman dressed like me or on a motorbike (They have only relatively recently been allowed to drive cars). She was very taken with me and spent a lot of time in my personal space….something Iranians don’t bother about! Manijeh spoke to us for quite a while wishing us well and welcoming us…she showed me a picture of her daughter who is married and lives in Canada. Soghra showed me pictures of her grandchild….I shared with them that Vince and I have 5 adult children (3 girls and 2 boys) and that the girls all have children…so we have grandchildren (4 girls and 1 boy)….Manijeh translated for her relative and they were very pleased about that.  They asked if they could take photos and we agreed….we also took some….smiles all round again! I gave them a sticker each and we explained about our website. As we said our goodbyes both women hugged me and kissed me three times on the cheeks….I felt very privileged……a very special interaction I shall treasure from Iran.

Back on the road a German guy pulled along side us in his Jeep Stationwagon and gave us the big thumbs up …. a fellow traveller!

(Vince says:)

Our Garmin/BMW GPS is almost completely blind in Iran – it shows just the major connecting roads between cities, and shows zero street level detail, so for example, Tehran is just a grey blob on the screen. Fortunately I had scrawled a largely illegible mudmap on the back of an envelope the evening before, and that was our sole guidance to the Tehran Grand Hotel. I couldn’t take my eyes off the road to look at the map which was inside the see-through tank-bag, so whilst we zipped along the freeways at 100kmh or so Karen had to remove her sunglasses, locate her reading glasses and put them on under her helmet, and then peer over my shoulder to try and decipher my cryptic notes and diagrams – and she managed this quite well!!!

Tehran is criss-crossed by a network of north-south and east-west expressways and occasionally we’d miss a turn-off as you don’t get much advance warning that they are coming up, but we managed to home into the hotel without too much bother. The traffic was reasonably light and without too many manic moments – I think I’m still a bit shell-shocked from the ride into Istanbul and I wasn’t looking forwards to Tehran, but the drivers here are fairly courteous, and even make a concerted effort to stay within their lanes – when the road has lane markings that is, as often there are no markings.

Once settled in our room we wandered outside for a late lunch and found a delicious pizza place – almost like Pizza Hut !!! (Karen’s note: Black Headscarf makes no difference……a couple of girls still laughed at us but I asked them what was so funny and ended up with an apology). On the walk there and back we saw two car showrooms, both featuring a selection of posh new cars, like the Porsche Cayenne, BMW coupe, Mercedes etc – and this struck us both as quite incongruent as up to now all the cars we’ve seen on the road have generally been old cars – a lot of old and insipid Peugeots and Renaults, some newer Peugeots (305’s I think), and heaps of what look like locally-produced cars. A sign of the international sanctions perhaps.

In the evening I banged out the third round of visa applications for India, but having completed these forms previously in France (enroute to Geneva) and in Ankara, I’m getting much quicker at filling in the forms. Afterwards we wandered outside looking for somewhere to eat, and stumbled across our second below-ground level restaurant where we enjoyed a nice meal, served canteen-style. I think I’ve seen steps leading downstairs before – perhaps in Zanjan – squeezed between street-front shops – maybe it’s standard in Iran for restauarants to be below-ground – further investigation is required!!!!