After breakfast at the Areeya Phuree Resort, Thaton, Mai Ai, we set off for Chiang Khong….we planned to try to stop off to visit one or two Karen long Neck (Paduang) Hill Tribes along the way, as I was intrigued to learn more about my namesakes that I first encountered at Lake Inle (Myanmar), at a weaving place.

I had done a bit of research, and the information I had said that it was free to visit the village as they hoped tourists would purchase their handicrafts ……which is how they make a living, basically being illegal immigrants from Myanmar! Several things I read said it did seem a bit exploitive, but was like something out of National Geographic and tourism supported the community. When we arrived we were immediately hit up for 300THB each to go down into the village. Whilst we did not visit the actual Akha village there were many of them with stalls as we entered the Karen Long Neck Village…..mostly with wares that were mass produced and we had seen in Chiang Mai markets!

The Akha are an indigenous Hill Tribe who live in small villages in the mountains of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar (Burma) and are famous for weaving and embroidery, much like the Karen People. They came from China originally in the early 20th Century but due to civil unrest in Laos and Myanmar there are now over 80,000 Akha living in Thailand in the North (Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai). The headdresses worn by the women were quite ornate and spectacular. Akha women define their age or marital status with the style of headdress worn. Girls wear a child’s cap until around 12 years old when they change to a girl’s cap. After puberty they will start to wear the “jejaw”…..a heavily beaded sash that hangs over the front of her skirt so it doesn’t fly up when windy. Around 15 or 16 they begin to wear an adult headdress. Each Headdress is unique and decorated by their owner using items such as silver coins or beads, monkey fur, dyed chicken feathers and colourful threads …..very creative!

Moving on to the Karen Village, it was not really a village at all, but a series of stalls each one housing an individual Karen Long Neck child, girl or woman…..Vince said it reminded him of the “Starting Stalls” in Kalgoorlie which he had seen on a school tour. The girls and women seemed sad and few smiled, some just sat, others weaved or wound cotton threads for weaving. I admired their weaving and complimented them own their handiwork as I spoke with them individually….one girl did eventually smile….but I was hard pressed…..not even when I bought a scarf from an older woman was there a smile! Vince and I both felt so uncomfortable that we cut the visit short and went back to the ANIMAL. Mike and Aad (Art) had abstained, they wanted to try the next village ….thinking it may be the one I had read about…..so we rode there…..Vince and I stayed with the the bikes this time and Mike went to check it out….it was even more commercialised than the previous one, so none of us went in.

Traditionally, the Karen People live in bamboo houses up on stilts, Animals such as pigs, chickens, and buffaloes live underneath.They are skilled farmers who practice crop rotation, hunt for game with spears and crossbows, and use tame elephants to help them clear land. Karen women are skilled in sewing and dyeing, Chiang Mai Karen long neck & Chiang Dao Cave Tour like to settle in foothills, and live in bamboo houses raised on stilts, beneath which live their domestic animals: pigs, chickens, and elephants.

The Paduang are a subgroup of the Karen People and sometimes Calle the Long Necks or Giraffe Tribe, other subgroups doesn’t wear the rings. It is a myth That the rings actipually elongate the wearer’s neck…..if this was true they would be paralysed or die. It is just a visual illusion. Their mythology says it prevents tigers from biting them! Some say it is to make them unattractive to slave traders, other that it is a sign of beauty to attract a husband.

We set of this morning around 9.00am and arrived at Sawadee Homestay (550 THB including breakfast) around 2.30pm. After a brisk shower (no hot water) we went for a walk looking for a suitable place to eat, or purchase items to cook. In the end we opted for cooking and poor Vince had to cook and clean up due to my broken arm…..I did what little I safely could, handing him things etc….but the Dragonfly can be a bit dangerous with its open naked flame so he was pretty much left too it! It makes me feel useless….I always like to pull my own weight so my broken arm is quite burdensome. After dinner we caught up on chores ( downloading photos, video, answering emails, blogging etc).

Tomorrow is a big day for us….we intend to cross the border into Laos….Vince loved it when he was there last time and is excited to share the places with me now……we can’t wait! Laos….we’re coming for you!!!!

Vince enjoyed his Thai cooking class so much at the Thai Kitchen Cookery Centre, that he wanted to go again…..this time having me try cooking and he would be my helper! So at 9.30am, after breakfast, we were collected and taken to the cooking school. Some of the staff (Art, JJ and Kaew) recognised us from last time and thanked us for coming back again.

It was a full house today with lots of people doing the full course. Over the course of the day we met some really interesting travellers….a couple from Denmark, Nick (Pakastani Chef) and Liv (his Danish girlfriend) who are set on ending up in Sydney on a residency visa…… a fun group from England…Tom who is getting married next year and works raising funds for a charity, Ben and Tanya (archeologist) who have just moved to Fife in Scotland……. a group from gorgeous people from Germany….Leslie and Dennis and their friend Julie, all Architects, who have quit their jobs to travel for 6 months in South East Asia….. a couple of Aussies from Melbourne, Georgette and Ari, who at psychology students and David – an Aussie from Newcastle, who is here for a week whilst his wife does a hypnotherapy course…… the USA were also represented with Jeremy, Tatyana and Ben, all in IT and Mo from France in the Champagne region, who works for a US Insurance firm in Geneva. There were some other people there also but we didn’t get a chance to know them. I estimate at least 20 – 25 people….all three work stations were operating.

We decided to make different dishes from the last time so I made Chicken in Coconut Milk Soup (Tom Kha Gai), Massaman Curry Paste (Namprik Gaeng Masaman), Massaman Curry with Chicken (Masaman Gai), Fried Cashew Nut with Chicken (Gai Pud Met Mar Mooung), Chicken Satay (Kai Satay) and Fried Banana with Thick Coconut Toffee (Glooay Tord) and Ice Cream. I have to say that my soup, whilst tasty, paled into insignificance compared with Vince’s Tom Yum Goong from last time. My Massaman Curry (Masaman Gai) was a hit….on par with his Kieow Wan from last time and we were divided on the Fried Cashew Nut and Chicken (Gai Pud Met Mar Mooung)…..Vince really liked it, I was not so fussed. The appetiser of Chicken Satay (Kai Satay) was delicious and the Fried Banana (Glooay Tord) and Ice-cream was really good! We were stuffed by the end….so much so I didn’t have any dinner, although Vince still manage some dinner at Panda House with the boys.

I was awarded my certificate for the day and it was another wonderful experience in Chiang Mai. We joked that now we can open a Thai restaurant – with only 6 dishes on the menu! LOL

Tues 8th Dec…..I’m glad to say that we collected our gear last night and my jacket was a success thanks to Lucky ( the tailor) who would not even give us an actual price for our mending and alterations….so Vince decided 3000THB (A$120 approx) would be fair ….given he didn’t charge us last time for his labour. He seemed quite pleased. So I now have a zipper in my right arm of my Dryrider so I can fit my cast through!

Breakfast was with the boys….then I retired upstairs to work on my gallery problem whilst Vince and Aad (Art) went to execute a cunning plan ……..to buy dirt bike pegs with metal teeth….then take them to a workshop to be machined to fit the BMW pillion footpeg bracket…..they were successful in their mission! They look pretty savage compared to the rubber ones I’ve had previously that keep coming off, leaving smooth metal underneath…..but at least I won’t be sliding around when we are going up or down hill…..and that’s got to be good…..especially with only one working arm now to hold on if needed…..every bit helps! The boys were most pleased with themselves and it was very kind of Aad (Art) to help us out with his mechanical expertise and problem solving! BMW don’t make them, Touratech only make them up to the 2013 model and our ANIMAL was born in 2014……so necessity is the mother of invention…..patent pending Aad (Art) Schram!

Lunch was at Panda House (I am so over it …same old same old after almost a fortnight ……but the boys seem to like it…its cheap!) then Vince was captive to the MacBook Pro working on making a Pakistan Video. I checked out cast decorations on the Internet as Mike has inspired me to consider it for my new cast tomorrow.

In the late afternoon we went for a trip to the local 711  for ice-cream! Then we went for a walk back to some bike shops……ho hum …..that’s what happens when 3 biker boys get together! We stopped off at déjà vu Tatoo to ask if they draw on casts…I wanted a Thai Elephant and a Tiger……they don’t !

We all headed to the Mexican place, Miguel’s, for dinner…..I was a bit wiser than last time and said to hold the jalapeños and asked for the spicey salsa on the side for my Nachos……much better not having to poke my tongue out like a dog to cool it down! Vince had his usual 3 Amigos!

I had quite a lot of pain today…..I stopped my analgesics yesterday and I was fine but today was not a good day…….by night time I agreed with Vince, my resident legal “drug” dealer, that  I should take something so I could sleep.  We watched the remaining half of the Blues Brothers on the laptop before calling it a night.

Wed 9th Dec….Vince insisted, after the testosterone filled day yesterday, that it was a “girly pamper day”. We all went out for breakfast to the Walkin Cafe….it was unremarkable but noisy as it was on the corner of two busy roads. Whilst there we saw a parade with lots of military uniforms and bands. Most places don’t open in Chiang Mai until 10.00am, so after breaky the boys went off to do chores and Vince and I had a walk around. We sat a while outside Macdonalds until 10.00am. I finally got that pedicure and manicure (400THB) I have been chasing for the past few days and Vince went to look at some bike shops…..still chasing gloves!

Lunch was back at Panda House and we pottered doing chores around the hotel until dinner. We all went for a walk in the evening and Vince and I dropped in for a Fish Spa….(60THB for 15 min)….it was a bit weird and very ticklish for Vince…but all good fun. We couldn’t convince Aad (Art) and Mike to join us but they looked on from outside finding it most entertaining.

Dinner was at “Art’s Cafe” which we found quite apt and the food was delicious….Spaghetti Bolognese for me and Lasagne for Vince…..I know …why Italian and Mexican when you are in Thailand….but we have been here about a month now, so a change is good!

Vince and I had a relatively early night and only watched about half of James Bond – Diamonds are Forever on the laptop before turning it off to go to sleep!

Thursday 10th Dec……. To tell the truth I was a bit anxious going to Bangkok Hospital (Chiang Mai) this morning, but as it was a public holiday at least there was little traffic out at 9.00am as our Tuk Tuk sped along. The last time I was there I was in excruciating pain, the knocked me out and did unspeakable things to me, and when I woke up I was in even worse pain…..all for my own good apparently! Being an ex-nurse I am well aware of things that can go wrong, knowing I live under Murphy’s Law doesn’t help, and being a born worrier …it was all a bit much! But my wonderful husband, always positive….helped reassure me and cheer me up!

Bangkok Hospital runs like clockwork and I was X-Rayed and in to see my specialist in almost lightening speed. He was very pleased with my X-Ray’s….healing as expected. He was also very impressed with my stitches….as my skin had almost grown over them…..this made them a bit difficult to come out…but he assured me I am “like a Thai”…..they heal fast…..apparently Westerners don’t…I’m the first he has seen that has and he was very complimentary…..fantastic! I was surprised that I didn’t get the full cast I was expecting….the Surgeon just put my split cast back on saying that’s all I need….and I can now remove it only to shower. In hospital previously, the Physio came and gave me a long plastic glove with a type of flange at the enterance ……making it waterproof…..so I had been using that but it was a bit of a mission getting my arm and cast in and out even with Vince’s help. The skin under the cast was pretty awful and peeling, so being able to have a proper shower will be a treat.

We had to collect some corrected paperwork (They listed the cause as a motorcycle accident….when it was a fall in a campground) and sort out the bill at the cashier (2389 THB around A$100) fully covered by World Nomads…..you have to love them! I sure do!!!!!!

I am cleared to travel now but we need to go to Bangkok Hospital (Udon Thani) for follow up on 7th Jan 2016. Which means we will need to go from Vientiane (Laos) about 100km, cross the border into Thailand again and then go back to Laos…..thank goodness for Visa on Arrival at the borders! My surgeon here will transfer all my records etc and make the arrangements, all going well that should be that! If things are no yet ok at that point it will be a further two weeks in a cast…but we’ll cross that bridge if we need to. For now it’s all systems go!

We arranged to meet the boys for burgers at Central Festival….where we also went to Svensons for Icecream……I’m going to end up the size of blimp at this rate! The boys shopped for a GoPro camera housing and in our search I was seducd by a batman minion! Minions are an inside joke between the 4 of us (instigated by young Mike) on a daily basis, and I have a thing for Batman…..well if I’m honest it’s Batman and Woolverine from X men! Vince encouraged me to find out how much….590THB…..so we said yes…..but when they came back with the box it showed 790THB….I told them not to worry I’d leave it….suddenly it was 590THB again….. just for me! Vince is now busy trying to work out how to mount it to the ANIMAL…..Marmalade (our Ox mascot) is thrilled to have a little brother (hehe).

Dinner was back at the Mexican restaurant,  Miguel’s, the boys love so much….with the second half of James Bond  watched before bed!

We are pretty much stuck in Chiang Mai until at least the 12th Dec…my Orthopaedic Surgeons appointment is the 10th and we want to wait a day (11th) to be sure my new fibreglass cast fits okay and is comfortable as I will be wearing it for 6-8 weeks! So that leaves the target date of the 12th for our movement onwards.

Chiang Mai is a great place to be stuck, if you have to be stuck anywhere!  Here’s a bit of a run down on how we have filled in our time so far:

Sat 5th Dec Father’s Day in Chiang Mai so a lot of places were closed but we still managed to go to a bike shop as Aad (Art) and Mike wanted spotlights (they so like the ones on the ANIMAL) and Vince wanted replacement pillion footpegs and summer gloves. I was taken along for  excercise and “decoration” – oh and I have a credit card and can remember the pin, unlike my darling husband. The boys were successful in their quest…unfortunately not so for Vince…..but he will keep looking….he’s no quitter!

We walked past the American Consulate and admired the paintings on the walls before stopping in at a local coffee place where we really started throwing around the dream idea of merging into a joint tour company ( Nomadica ). Dinner was at the open air market where we had first discussed our fledgling ideas to join together a few nights ago (3rd Dec)….and tonight we continued but we changed our thoughts on the name of our multinational company (European HQ and Australian HQ) …..”Ready 4 Adventures”……..we were born ready! Domain name registered….Logo and T-Shirts to come! LOL

Sun 6th Dec After breakfast Vince had a lesson from Mike on iMovie and backed up his video…..it takes time as we have so much. I worked on the website galleries….a recent software update has detached many galleries and I am having to weave my way through the 232 gallery quagmire!

Vince and I caught a tuk tuk to get some lunch (Burgerking) and treated ourselves to a Thai Massage (250 THB) each…mine with hot stones (600 THB)….it was quite rough at times with the girl up on the bed with me pushing and pulling, using her bony fingers and elbows…cracking the synovial fluid in all my joints …..the warmth of the oil and stones was the only solace for me. I made sure she didn’t touch my injured arm! When I saw Vince he was drinking green tea and looked shattered. Although he had a seated massage it was done by a woman with a wrestlers build and he said he felt broken! Guess they do things differently here!

Dinner was at a nearby Mexican place were the boys enjoyed the “spice and heat” and the entertainment I provided in hanging out my tongue to try to cool it down and wiping my running nose from the chilli! Vince had a “Beer Lao” and as I was wearing my Ride Lao T-Shirt insisted that a photo be taken of my chest and his beer! It’s a boy thing apparently!

Mon 7th Dec – We woke up late ( a bit before 8.00) still recovering from our Thai massages from yesterday….Vince says he feels like he has been hit by a truck. We broke with what has become tradition and had breakfast elsewhere instead of Panda House. Vince and I wanted to go to Rider’s Corner but the boys wanted to have a Thai breakfast …so we went our separate ways  for a change. Vince and I had a leisurely English Breakfast and read some of the riding magazines for inspiration – we both dream of travelling forever!

Back at our hotel the boys were out on their bikes (Fitting their lights at Piston Stop) and Vince worked on his video editing….. so I worked on updating our website and photos.

At some point today I hope to get a pedicure, but I don’t like my chances….. and we need to go a pick up our riding gear from the Tailor his evening as it should be altered….great stuff!

We were collected after breakfast, about 9.00am to go to the Thai Kitchen Cookery Centre – 1st Cookery School in Chiang Mai (Established 1995). We arrived at the traditional teak wood house owned by Tuk Tub Tim and his family who share their family recipe secrets (www.thaikitchencentre.com) in a totally hands on course.

They offer one, two, three and half day tours…either in a group or privately….we were booked into the full day course. This allowed us to selected 6 different dishes (from 26 choices over 6 categories – Curry Paste, Curry, Stir Fried, Soup, Appetiser, Dessert). Vince chose the following:  Namprik Gaengkieow Wan (Green Curry Paste), Kieow Wan (Green Curry with Chicken), Pad Thai (Fried Noodles Thai Style), Tom Yum Goong (Prawn & Coconut  Milk Soup), Po Piet (Original Spring Roll) and Kao Neow Mamuang (Sticky Rice with Mango). It was a bargain at 1000 THB for Vince as the participant and 200THB for me as the observer (due to my current chicken-wing status!).

We were given some welcome tea and dried banana whilst we looked through the choices and gave our selections to the staff Kaew, JJ and Art. We were then given an embroidered apron and basket to go to the local market. We were back into the silver truck to go to the Sompet Market and Kaew went over a range of herbs, spices and vegetables we would be using and let us sample them….it was extremely interesting and informative. We even learned that fresh turmeric can be used on mozzie bites for relief – we got some for Vince who has been savaged by them lately and his legs are covered in bites! We were also shown how they get coconut cream, coconut milk and coconut sugar….quite fascinating and delicious! We were then given around 10 min to explore the markets on our own and the various stalls held all sorts of interesting things for sale. When we returned to the first stall our baskets were already filled with ingredients for us.

Back at the Teak House we started with the curry paste in a mortar and pestle…. that would be used in the Kieow Wan later. Next was moving to the individual cooking station and making Tom Yum Goong ….surprisingly simple and exquisitely delicious! The Kieow Wan was next, closely followed by the Pad Thai. The Kieow Wan was out of this world…..Vince has always made a wicked Thai Green Chicken Curry at home….but this was mind blowing and totally from scratch (we buy the paste etc back home). We all ate in the air-conditioned Chiang Mai style room, sitting on cushions at low tables. Over the course of the  morning we met some interesting people, including Maria (paediatrician) and her husband, whose name I am unsure of (Engineer) from Poland, Lisa (Yoga/Thai Massage Therapist) from America, Kaitlin (Physio) and Kayleigh (Nurse) from Canada, Mojo from Turkey….along with two older ladies from Switzerland and Canada, a young couple from Germany and another couple from Turkey. Some of the group (the maroon aprons) left after lunch….and there were just 4 of us blue aprons left, Lisa, Mojo, Vince and myself. We proceeded to make our appetisers and desserts……I was impressed at how easy spring rolls are to make and Sticky Rice is a little complicated with pre soaking required overnight, but otherwise a delicious and filling concoction. We were so stuffed we took some doggie bags back to our hotel for the boys (Aad (Art) and Mike) and Lisa wanted to come and meet Mike at Aad (Art) as she was pretty impressed with what we shared with her about their adventures and Mike’s World Record.

Dinner back at our hotel was pizza…..not that we were hungry…… it has been a day of culinary delights!

After 4 days (26,27,28 and 29th Nov) in hospital I finally got discharged on Mon 30th….I saw my Specialist at 10.30am and it was after 2.30 pm when I finally left, via taxi, for the Panda House Hotel….where we had stayed previously. The main hold up was sorting out payment….as we had to pay a 50% deposit when we first arrived ($6000) and now World Nomads were to pay the $12,000 bill, we were to be refunded less the $100 excess required by our insurance policy. It was all a bit confusing for the cashier!

World Nomads were just fantastic throughout….Vince contacted them when I was in emergency and they were very reassuring and efficient in recommending the hospital we were already at, processing our claim and assuring us all costs would be covered, and even calling us several times to check on my welfare and treatment throughout my stay…..very thorough and professional.

Tuesday 1st Dec I rested at the hotel whilst Vince, Aad (Art) and Mike went on the motorbikes to Customs to try to get our import papers ( for the ANIMAL) extended to match our Visa’s and allow us to stay to meet my follow up appointment on 10th Dec. The Specialist will see me for removal of stitches, more X Ray’s and a full fibreglass cast will be put on….I currently have a split cast to accommodate the swelling caused by the trauma and subsequent surgery. The hospital had provided a medical certificate and report to support our request, including for our two travelling companions who have chosen to wait for us…..so it was granted without any problems….great!

Wed 2nd Dec we all took a trip to Centre Festival, a local shopping complex where the boys shopped ‘it’ll they dropped for 3 hours, whilst I had my hair coloured to get rid of the “silver streak” that someone mysteriously periodically paints in my hair every 6 weeks! The first go at Cut and Curl left me hair with blonde striping in the new growth to which the hairdresser asked “is that ok?” …duh ….”No…we need to fix it” was my response (especially at the 7000 THB price tag ). I was moved out of sight into a back room….I’m sure it’s bad for business when things go wrong!  The second attempt was a slightly darker shade of brown…. but still the same problem remained….it was quite comical as we all looked at each other in the mirror….the female hairdresser closely examining strands of my hair with her face telling a pitiful story, no words required…….the male underling hairdresser, face all forlorne, simply said “that’s not ok.” ….I nodded in agreement. The third attempt was finally successful in at least obtaining one colour ….although a lot darker than I wanted….and he was so exited he was clapping his hands, running around shouting “I did that…it was me that fixed it.” In between all this excitement Vince periodically called in to check on progress and then went and relayed developments back to the boys….they told me later each report was getting more and more serious….but it did provide them with entertainment as they visualised my dilemma. I now have to put up with each of them intermittently asking ” have you done something different with your hair?” Very funny guys!

Thursday 3rd we all took a trip to the local Tesco Lotis Mall to get a medical kit for Aad (Art) and some dressing supplies for me…..Vince likes playing nurse to me! We plan to take my riding gear to the tailors to see what can be done (maybe a zip) to accommodate my right arm and my cast as currently it won’t fit. Vince and I will also get some mending done on our riding pants which have taken a battering against the local washing styles with some stitching coming undone. We might try and get a massage at the local markets (DIDN’T HAPPEN) before getting some dinner out (we have not done so since I came out of hospital)…well that’s the plan anyway we shall see what happens…..Aad (Art) keeps telling me how tired and crap I look…..being in constant pain for a week now will do that to you!

We notices lots of preparation for festivities and found out later from John (tailor) that it was the King’s Birthday!

Tomorrow Vince and I are booked into a traditional Thai Cooking class….or rather he will cook and I will observe, seeing as how I am one handed these days….and it’s my right arm that’s broken so I’m pretty much useless with just my left hand! Stay tuned for that one!

Saturday 21st November 2015

We had planned to go to Tiger Kingdom (home of conservation for the Indochinese Tiger) yesterday, but our friend Aad (Art) was still unwell, so we postponed until today. We were up for breakfast around 7.00am and our taxi truck (rot daang or ‘red truck’) came to collect us at 8.30am for the 12km journey out to the Mae Rim District (51/1 Moo 7, Rim Tai, Mae Rim District, Chiang Mai 50180). Our driver would wait for us and bring us back on the return trip at our convenience for only 500 THB in total.

The park is open from 9.00am – 6.00pm and we wanted to avoid the heat of the day. We arrived at the park and looked into our options….there are individual tickets and package tickets…..Vince and I wanted to make the most of our experience and go for the top package…..TAKE ALL (smallest, small, medium and big cats!) for 2280 THB each person. But there is a height restriction on the Big Cats…you have to be at least 160cm tall….and I am only 149cm…..so I could not go in with the Big Cats as they would have me for lunch! A bit disappointing but I don’t have a death wish. I told Vince he could still go and I would watch from outside but he refused…..saying “we’re a team and we do it together or not at all”. So we went for the Take 3 Package instead (1530 THB each). We decided to also get a professional photographer for each cage at a total of 1000 THB including CDs and USB.

After sorting out and paying for our tickets we had to wait to be escorted into the Park and into the Tiger Zone. There were lockers (locker 19 but padlock No 39) where we could leave our belongings, other than cameras which were permitted. We started with the smallest cats….and had to wash our hands first and take off our shoes to protect them from any germs, as their immune systems are still developing. First we met “Laddie” a little male who was just four months old. He was a little tart bag rolling on his back and wanting his tummy scratched….so soft and cute. We all took turns one by one to get up close with him…..the excitement on Vince’s face as he stroked Laddie’s tummy was obvious. Next we were introduced to little “Opal”, a female also four months old. We were instructed to put our head on her tummy and the keeper put her paws around our necks……a truly unique moment in my life……I was worried I would be too heavy for the little cub….but she was the ideal furry pillow! There were a couple of other cubs in the enclosure but our keeper took us past them through into another enclosure with two little 3 month old girls, Yoki and Mocha. We didn’t get to touch Mocha, but Yoki was soon awake and up on a low table for us to be photographed with. The tigers sleep a lot during the day as they are most active at night and early morning. Yoki kept looking into my face and Vince said it must be love at first sight….and we secretly sized her up to see if we could take her in a pannier! She was just gorgeous, and even licked me a few times….but the keeper stopped her….as they discourage licking because it leads to the natural cat behaviour of biting and scratching.

Next it was off to the small cat enclosure. Here we met “Hello”, a seven month old female, and I got to put her huge back paw against my face. Next we met “Andy” a 9th month old male…..very majestic, who let me play with his tail and rub his back! Absolutely beautiful. We completed our visit to this enclosure getting to know “Rickshaw”, another seven month old female with a preference for tummy rubs. I am actually allergic to cats….and although I had taken some medication before we went I started to react badly with redness, itching and swelling on my hands, arms and neck……so it was a wash off at the sink and a pat try to calm things down……I was determined I wasn’t missing out on this once in a lifetime experience even if I had to suffer a little.

We had a bit of a wait to get into the Medium Cat enclosure….as there was only one photographer. Whilst we waited, Vince took some photos of the action happening in the Big Cat enclosure, where our friends, Mike and Aad (Art) were inside.

Inside the Medium Cat enclosure all 4 of the tigers were 14 months old. We met three of them in turn, “Coconut”….an absolutely magnificent male, “Penguin”, a female with a love of cool, wet places that resulted in us having to sit with her in wet spots…..but so worth it! Our final encounter was with with another female, “Micky”…..whose unbelievable muscle structure was most impressive as it rippled under our hands. It’s amazing how quickly they grow. We were in this enclosure without any other tourists and it was a magical experience. The 4 tigers prowling around freely with us in between…..a little alarming at one point, when I felt like I was being stalked as one of them came silently from behind me as I patted Micky….the size of their paws alone meant one swipe and you would be in serious trouble! Although these tigers are hand reared they are still wild animals.

We had a walk around the park and saw two small cubs playing, one was a white tiger. We gazed for ages at a huge Siberian Tiger….Vince nicknamed “Cuddles”……just out of this world…in terms of sheer power and majesty! Honestly, you wouldn’t stand a chance! We also saw an African Lion and an adult white tiger.

The medical centre had one little baby boy Tiger, “Boon”, just 1 month old who was being treated for splayed hips. He was so cute….we were not allowed to touch him but we could observe him from behind a fence……his little calls were quite demanding of his keepers.

Back at the main entrance area we picked up our photographs and headed for some lunch at the restaurant, after which we got back into our taxi truck and back to Panda House Hotel. We were floating on cloud nine…..what a great experience and privilege to walk with the beasts!

We had a bit of a rest and checked out our photos before heading to the night markets, a spectacle of colour and interest, where I bought a pair of black Fisherman Pants (129 THB) as they were so comfortable when we wore them at the Elephant Camp the other day. Vince, Mike, Aad (Art) and I walked along taking in all the sights and smells. We came across an open eating area with stalls all around, something for everyone. We had dinner there listening to some live music….all quite Westernised….and before we knew it time had slipped away and it was time to head back home to the hotel. A wonderful day had been had by all.

After all the fun and frivolity of yesterday with the Elephants (although we did do some chores in the afternoon)…..today was a designated “Chore” day! So after breakfast Vince and I took a long walk to try to find the “Local Market” where we would search for a tailor to try to mend my adventure riding jacket zip. I was a bit reluctant to walk, as every muscle in my body ached and I felt like I had been hit by a Mack Truck – from riding Magnum yesterday, but we were assured by the hotel reception it was only 5 minutes away…. after a half hour or so, and checking with several locals along the way that we were headed in the right direction, we eventually did arrive at the Market.

The only problem was I had suddenly developed an immediate and urgent problem….terrible cramps doubling me over and an obvious need to find the nearest tuk tuk and get back to the hotel toilet….that said I was torn because I really wanted to find a tailor and get my zip fixed….but it was no good….if I didn’t want an embarrassing situation I needed to get back to the hotel pronto! So close and yet so far! Vince commandeered the nearest tuk tuk and we were on our way….I raced up the two flights of stairs, ignoring the pain and distregarding my aching muscles, and just made it in time. I was going nowhere for sometime!

We had spent the evening of the 17th clearing out and cleaning our panniers and soft bags to send some gear home…..10.7kg in total! So the plan was to go to DHL and sent it home to Vince’s brother Ken (he is our official 2upadventures home support crew and we couldn’t do without him – long live Ken our guardian angel). As I was feeling less than special…Vince would have to make this journey on his own….but young Mike came to the rescue and said he would go and help carry stuff….Aad (Art), who was also under the weather with tummy issues, stayed with me at the hotel for company….and in case either of us died or needed an ambulance! (of course this is an exaggeration but we did feel like we were dying!). It cost us about 5000 THB (around A$200)….not cheap! Vince also wanted to get some maps so they boys had stopped off at a few bookshops along the way.

By mid afternoon I was feeling better….still not fantastic….but at least I didn’t have to live on the toilet. So Vince and I thought we would give my jacket another shot…..I decided a new strategy was to research a tailor, get an address and jump in a tuk tuk…I was not willing to walk this time…..just in case! Vince agreed and before we knew it we were on our way to His and Her Tailors, 150 Changklan Road, Chiang Mai 50100. Most tuk tuk rides are about 100THB and this was no different. At this very upmarket custom tailor they were sad to tell me that they did not do alterations or mending but redirected me a few doors down to New Moda International Fashion, 150/1 Changklan Rd……another custom tailors and also upmarket. The gentlemen there (owner John Moda and his assistant) were most helpful in my request for a very strong zip to be fitted, and sent for someone else (Lucky) to see if it could be done….when the Lucky arrived and saw my jacket his first words were “Oh my God!” ….not bad for a buddhist! He immediately looked at Vince and asked if he rode motocross….when Vince laughed and said “It’s not my jacket, it’s hers” pointing at me, I thought the guy was going to faint! We explained about our trip and where our travels had taken us…..and we discovered that both John and the Lucky were both from Myanmar, we talked about how much we enjoyed Inle Lake and Bagan. The Lucky had regained his composure and assured us he would like to help us in this very unusual request for a metal zipper, but that it would be expensive….1000 THB ($40)…to which we said fine go ahead and Vince paid in advance. Before we left they wanted photos with me in my jacket….so we obliged.

After leaving the tailors we decided to get an ice-cream (as it’s very hot here during the day) but along the way we came across a row of massage places….and as both our bodies were feeling the effects of our elephant adventures yesterday, Vince suggested we both get massages. They were advertising a special – Foot, Head, Neck, Shoulder and Back massage for 1 hour for just 250 THB ….so in we went ….and a hour later we floated out the door feeling much better. We decided to forego our icecream and head back to the hotel, via tuk tuk, to catch up with our friends.

Back at the hotel poor Aad (Art) was still feeling unwell, but hungry. Vince and Mike had spotted a little Italian place on their DHL escapade…..yes I know, I know…..why would you have Italian in Thailand….but sometimes you just need a change! So off in yet another tuk tuk and we were soon having a lovely dinner. Vince and I both had lasagne, he had a beer and I had a cocktail called “I love You”….it was a tenth of the price of a glass of wine (1400 THB) at just 140 THB. The tuk tuk ride on the way home was nothing short of spectacular…..now you need to know that when 4 of us fit into a tuk tuk (called Taxi’s here) there is generally the three boys in the back and me perched precariously on a tiny little seat next to the driver ( I’m the only one of us who can fit there)….this guy had been grazing on good pasture and was rather rotundas…so it meant that I was practically hanging half out of the vehicle. Couple that with the speed of Stirling Moss and the bravado of James Bond and you have all the makings of a great car chase…..as we dodged and weaved in front of mainstream traffic, through narrow back alleys and side streets, and to my total disbelief, across a tiny wooden foot bridge over a river….when he saw the look of astonishment on my face he just laughed and revved the engine more! The situation was not really helped by Vince’s boisterous, encouraging onward calls from the back…..this is how we die! But again my fears were unfounded as we arrived safe and sound….if not a little “shaken but not stirred”…..at the Panda House Hotel.

18th Nov 2014

I was so excited when I woke up this morning…..around 6.00am…..today we were going to see the Elephants at Woody’s Elephant Home about an hours drive from Chiang Mai. We were to be picked up at 7.30am from the Panda House Hotel…but the driver had a bit of bother finding us so was 15 minutes late. We initially were sitting in the very back (as the rest of the minibus was full) but we started to feel ill, so when we stopped at the Eco Resort, to pick up 3 English Backpackers, we moved into the very front with the driver….a little squashy but better than throwing up!

After a quick stop off to get some hands of bananas for the elephants, it took about an hour and a half to get to the Camp where we got to meet 5 Asian Elephants, Magnum (20 years old and the only boy – elephants live to about 100 years), Cookie, Bang Bang, Mona Lisa and Jumbo. Magnum is the father of little Bang Bang, whose mother is Cookie. There were 9 people for the 5 elephants, Vince and myself rode Magnum, 2 German Girls were on Cookie, a middle aged French couple were on Jumbo, the three English Girls had to split up, with Natalie (a trainee dental nurse) and Emma (a midwife) on Mona Lisa and Ellie (Criminologist) on Bang Bang.

We met the elephants briefly and then were ushered uphill to a hut where we could change into T Shirts and Thai Fisherman Pants. We then returned to the elephants where we fed them bananas. They really loved these and we even got to put them straight into their mouths….their tongues are like velvet….so soft! Some of them got a bit cheeky and at one point I couldn’t get the bananas of the stalk quick enough and had three trunks intertwined all coming at me…..Trunk Attack!!!! LOL

We were given a little bit of training on how to mount and dismount our elephants as well as some basic commands in the Karen Hill Tribe Language…..which is used with the elephants. When you get on you have to say something like Yo Kha….Su, Go is Bye and Stop is Dah. We were also shown how to countersteer behind each ear (push right to go left and push left to go right).

We mounted Magnum…with Vince on the back and me on the front….so I was the rider on the way down to the lake, and we swapped over on the way back. It was a bit hard to get on for me….although Magnum was very accommodating to my commands letting me hold his ear and lifting his leg for me to climb up…the distance between the top of his leg and his back was longer than my body length so hoisting myself the rest of the way across his broad tummy and back was a bit of a mission…but I made it in the end with a bit of a push up from the Mahout. We set of and I was told to put my two hands on his head as we rode….my arms are not that long so I was stretched forward into a racing bike position….so Magnum is a GT racing model! It was very exciting and a bit scary at the same time….as he was such a huge elephant, much bigger than the others, so it was a long way down if we fell. On the flat was great but going down some of the steep hills, especially where it was rocky and very uneven, I felt that I would fall over his head….but Magnum is obviously an off road model and just as sure footed as our own ANIMAL!

At the edge of the lake we were stopped by someone on a small motorbike….it was the owner wanting to check on Magnum’s tusk….the Mahout told me that he was under the vet, his tusk was being treated and they just wanted to check on it before he went into the water. We were the last elephant in the line to get into the water and being so tall we didn’t even get wet. I was feeling a bit cocky as I saw the others getting drenched and I thought we might get away with just wet feet, if anything….I was wrong…..about half way into the lake Magnum suddenly submerged his head…..fine…..but then he submerged all of him and we found ourselves wet to our middles…….it was all good fun! Many of the elephants took the opportunity to empty their bowels and we soon found ourselves surrounded by floating time bombs! Apparently this first lake is the elephant toilet! We exited and walked a little further until we reached the second river were the elephants would play and have a bath. Once in the river we dismounted and I was given a brush…..Magnum lay down and we washed him….he was like a big puppy dog…..as I washed his ears he flipped them up for me to wash behind and he loved it…..just like our dog Cebar back home! When we had finished doing one side he simply rolled over and we did the other. In between he occasionally filled his trunk with water and washed us! It was a privilege for us to interact with such a majestic animal in this way….a wonderful lifetime memory. One of the other elephants…….Cookie or Jumbo I’m not certain which….was lifting the girls up in her trunk and our guide beckoned for me to come and join in…..unfortunately my legs were not in the right position – or too short I’m not sure which…..but I ended up falling backwards into the river……unhurt….totally soaked and laughing my head off! So a new strategy was developed and I was told to stand in front of the elephant with my legs apart….the next minute I was hoisted high up into the air with an elephant trunk between my legs……amazing! I loved it….they are so strong and yet so gentle…..a very special moment. They offered for Vince to have a go but he politely declined. Bathing complete we remounted Magnum…this time with Vince on the front and we headed on our journey back to the Camp. In all we actually rode the elephant for about and hour or more, the front (neck) was definitely more comfortable than the rear (spine).

Back at the camp we dismounted and said our fond goodbyes to Magnum and the other elephants and were introduced to another two elephants, a Mother (Rian) 23 years and her Baby (Happy born NY) 11 months. She was tethered to her mother as the Mahout explained that Happy likes to run off and bang into things with her head and they needed to protect her from herself. We peeled bananas for her, as the older elephants can have them unpeeled but the baby couldn’t.

Next went back up to the hut to change into our normal clothes. When we came out they had prepared a lunch of traditional food for us….delicious…especially a potatoe curry dish that was out of this world. There had been a professional photographer taking photos and for 800THB we could get them on a USB Drive…..during lunch they were displaying a selection of the photos from everyone and we decided to buy ours.

We had a wonderful time and by about 1.30pm we were back at our hotel. Mike and Aad (Art) were waiting for us as we were all going to go to immigration to try to extend our limited 15 day visa from the border which was quickly running out. First we stopped off at a shopping centre to collect Mike’s Laptop that was having screen problems, then we went to immigration, where the staff told us we needed to go to another shopping centre as it was just a short stay extension….back in another tuk tuk we found the place and within an hour…..lots of paperwork to fill in, photocopies of passports and visa stamps and a set of photos (on a blue background and of a differing size to any we had) all needed to be done and 1900THB each and the deal was done….another 30 days granted! Next we were off to BMW to collect a spare set of rear brake pads and replacement footpeg rubbers that we had ordered yesterday, then across the road to yet another shopping centre (the 3rd for the day) for something to eat at KFC and desert at Cold Stone. We had a bit of a look around but bought nothing. On the tuk tuk ride home we stopped off at the T Shirt place where I had ordered some custom designed T Shirts (2upadventures) for Vince and I at the huge cost of just 180THB each (about $7 including the TShirts and printing)….they looked awesome!

Back at our hotel we were starting to feel quite stiff and muscle sore allover…..apparently riding an elephant is not so gentle on the body after all! A truly unique and amazing day.